TowRig.com - Diesel Discussion and Tow Tech

I just ordered an instruction book on how to find and filter WVO (waste vegegable oil) and run it in the truck. I'll give you all an update when I figure out if it works or not. Wish me luck!

It will work but you will have to buy all of the Equipment to convert it to fuel.waytogo

Take Luck!!!rotfl rotfl

Hey 4054X4, did this ever work out for you?
Is it worth the time to try it?
What are the "other" ingredients you have to buy to use along with their fuel additive?


MT

Yes how is this project coming along???

Won't the BIO diesel be about the same as off road diesel? and if so does either hurt your motor?

No its not the same as off road fuel,off road fuel is simply dyied if I recall right-and or maybe a grade lower,running BIO has in no way or form damading to the engine atleast from what I have heard and the little I have read. I know if these little VW's can handle it the larger and more powerful,as well as better built in my opinion,engines from the big three can handle it.

My 6.0 book said it will take only 10- 15 % bio -diesel. don't know why.:confused:

My 6.0 book said it will take only 10- 15 % bio -diesel. don't know why.:confused:

Higher percentages of biodiesel can cause things like elevated NOx levels, injector coking, and BTU loss among other things.... you'll see alot of places mandate 5 - 10% blends.. not enough to do anything except keep the farm lobby happy.

be careful with the stuff.. the OEMS say using it won't void the warranty, but they also won't warranty any damage caused by biofuels.. same goes for all other fuels, including ULSD.. they don't make it, so they won't pay for its effects.

Tom

not sure how much this has to do wiht the topic but...the place wher i get fuel at they mix in there own bio product, im sure its not their product but they do the mixing theirselves, i got a tank of fuel and a bout 30 minutes later my truck started running like crap and egt's started going up...make a long story short i had to have one of their trucks come suck my tank out and refill it with good fuel, i guess from what the driver said the guys mixin it didnt do it rite and well our trucks wont run on high percentage of bio product....didnt hurt my truck though and ran fine after the good fuel was in my tank

my buddy bought the dse product we mixed it as per instructions and ran my one cylinder diesel generator on that and biodiesel and regular diesel. the all ran but the diesel ran the best,the others smoke more. i also ran a b20 mix in my o7 3500 dmax. i clogged 3 fuel filters. never again diesel is still easy and fairly cheap.

I know so folks who got VW and run that crap in it from the worse fuel station in town..lol then they pay more for the fuel and think they arereally helping out the enviroment techies. From what I have seen one needs to really prep the rig to run the fuel with the extra tank and filters I wouldnt mind doing it myself but I dont think I would buy it pre mixxed.

I think right now Dodge is not recommending more than B5. B20 will ruin certain rubbers and plastics and B10 might also. Biodiesel has poor resistance to oxidation, especially when blended with ULSD. This results in spoilage and formation of acids and varnishes, not good for seals, filters and pumps. Biodiesel can absorb much more water than regular #2 diesel, and we all know how bad water is in fuel. On top of all that, it has lower energy content than #2.

I don't see much advantage in B20 unless those problems can be overcome. I myself would rather run restaurant cooking oil. Lower energy content is the only problem with that oil.

Yes how is this project coming along???4054x4 switched to a Toyota. Maybe because he tried this DSE crap in his Dodge?:stir:

......After moving to America, this knowledge was useless due to the LOW cost of petroleum diesel. Recently, however, with ever increasing fuel prices he contacted associates in Germany, reformulated the system to work well with modern diesels, and is now making it available to all Americans......
Um....BS meter alert!!!!
Why would this have to be reformulated for modern engines? Fuel has always been much more expensive in Europe and the diesels over there are more advanced. If this DSE "system" was so good, they would have been using it over there long ago and would still be using it today. Are they?

46 cents per gallon only if your time and labor are worthless! What is the expected MPG difference when running this crap?
....and our special additive ( included ) which makes the fuel completely pure and stable.....
Completely pure??? Oh no, the BS meter is climbing again....

Mixing up some chemical cocktail to run through your $10,000 dollar engine just to save a couple of bucks on fuel.....brilliant!

Hey 4054X4, did this ever work out for you?
Is it worth the time to try it?
What are the "other" ingredients you have to buy to use along with their fuel additive?


MT
I'm going with the 120gal tank and system from;

http://www.goldenfuelsystems.com/index.php

The upside to WVO is you can pump it free from pretty much any restaurant. The downside, at least from a commercial perspective, is lower cetane and energy content than diesel fuel. I've been reading the websites that forum member 4by4bygod has listed in his sig line and I believe their fuel catalyst is the answer to the energy problem.

I just ordered an instruction book on how to find and filter WVO (waste vegegable oil) and run it in the truck. I'll give you all an update when I figure out if it works or not. Wish me luck!


I have ordered this same product and I am also thinking about trying this on a generator motor. Then after 3000 hours take the engine apart and see how the internals held up. I have read other views on here and will try to remedy these problems. Also I have found out it is much easier to find a plant that uses vegetable oil to cook just vegetables such as potato chips,bananas,your local donut shop maybe. This plant I have found filters the oil first because the drain is at the bottom and would be clogged if they didn't. Also they have more than enough to supply me which beats running around to 5 different restaurants and they are more than happy to give me this stuff free. I'm looking forward to hearing your results.

I have ordered this same product and I am also thinking about trying this on a generator motor. Then after 3000 hours take the engine apart and see how the internals held up. I have read other views on here and will try to remedy these problems. Also I have found out it is much easier to find a plant that uses vegetable oil to cook just vegetables such as potato chips,bananas,your local donut shop maybe. This plant I have found filters the oil first because the drain is at the bottom and would be clogged if they didn't. Also they have more than enough to supply me which beats running around to 5 different restaurants and they are more than happy to give me this stuff free. I'm looking forward to hearing your results.
Hey that's great man. I used to live in Dania/Hollywood back in the late 90s before half the dam country moved in. :rolleyes: I loved to go to Aventura and get my 'allover at Haulover'. :D

Hello to all,

The DSE guide doesn't show you how to make Bio. It is a blended fuel and it works fine. I have used it for 3 years now on two different trucks and no problems. It burns clean and is much easier than making bio. The key as with any WVO is to make sure and filter the oil good.

I ran it 100% in my 96 during the warmer months and 70% in my 04.5, During the colder months I just run it 50/50 with #2 diesel and have never had a filter clog up with those ratios. The basic set up they tell you how to build in the manual will let you make the fuel but you will need to put some thought into improving the filtering. One thing you can do that won't cost much is get a 5 micron bag filter and run the fuel through that filter for several hours That will get it cleaner than the fuel that you get from the pump. The other issue is water in the fuel. That can be handled by heating the oil. Again, I doubt if you can over filter but the savings is well worth the effort.

Just my 2cents, hope this helps :)
Dale

Hello to all,

The DSE guide doesn't show you how to make Bio. It is a blended fuel and it works fine. I have used it for 3 years now on two different trucks and no problems. It burns clean and is much easier than making bio. The key as with any WVO is to make sure and filter the oil good.

I ran it 100% in my 96 during the warmer months and 70% in my 04.5, During the colder months I just run it 50/50 with #2 diesel and have never had a filter clog up with those ratios. The basic set up they tell you how to build in the manual will let you make the fuel but you will need to put some thought into improving the filtering. One thing you can do that won't cost much is get a 5 micron bag filter and run the fuel through that filter for several hours That will get it cleaner than the fuel that you get from the pump. The other issue is water in the fuel. That can be handled by heating the oil. Again, I doubt if you can over filter but the savings is well worth the effort.

Just my 2cents, hope this helps :)
Dale
Where can I find that guide?

Hello Mr Tow,

Here is the link to the DSE website...
http://www.dieselsecret.com/


The manual is very basic and gives instructions for a very basic setup. Remember, the basic system will not filter the oil/fuel sufficiently enough, in my opnion to run in the third generation trucks, or any truck for that matter. Do to the emissions tuning the 04.5's and newer will not like the fuel at 100%. However, even at 50% there is a significant savings.

Forgive me for only addressing the Dodge CTD as that is what I drive and know little about the Fords and GM's. I do know that the blend will work in any diesel engine.

There are also threads dedicated to this blend in other forums that are very informative and well worth the read if you are considering using this or any altenative fuel.

I hope this helps and best of luck.
Dale

work at a fairly large gov't complex where they run large fleets of diesel trucks and equipment on bio (mandated by doe) and the mechanics who maintain these things tell me that they are a maintenance nightmare. seals, hoses, and engine wear parts don't like it. it's very corrosive and they are always in the shop. i don't think i'm willing to use my 3500 as a guinea pig with this stuff until more info and test data are available. the idea of .70 cents a gallon is tempting, but like they say if it sounds to good to be true it probably is.

Around here the offroad has a red dye in it but is the same as regular diesel other then you didn't pay a road tax on it.
The waste veggie oil from all I have read requires a separate fuel tank that is heated and needs to at temperature before you run it. You also need to switch back to regular diesel long enough to purge the system prior to shutdown or it will solidify in the fuel system and you won't restart on it. I also have been told it takes a different filter material then stock to prevent filter clogging.
None of the stations in my area currently are selling any biodiesel, only way I can get it is to have a tank at home and go with bulk delivery.

The January issue of Diesel World has a lot of good articles on biodiesel, website called nearbio.com shows all stations that sell bio in the u.s.

It DOES work, but you have to filter it down to at a minimum of 5 microns.
3 or 1 is better. No water and definitely NO fats left in the oil, or it will hurt the injection cycle.

I suggest that you install a 165* thermostat, rather than the 195* that I used. It will heat up much quicker, and be useable sooner on the road.

I worked with several local people in my area, one of them being Tom at www.Veggietanksplus.com (http://www.Veggietanksplus.com), to install my hose-in-a-hose system.

All in All, I have about 200.00 to 250.00 into my set-up.

The only drawback that I have had is that my 6.9L injection pump went out shortly after I had my system set up. It was already weak, but I didn't know how far along it was, untill it was too late.

If you have any further questions or comments, drop me a note.

I'm on the Mercedes diesel forum a lot and the Bio diesel forums too. Most of those guys won't touch DSE. It's snake oil. Check out Mercedesshop.com forums. thousands of discussions on DSE bulls**t.

As for bio-diesel...my understanding as to why it's only recommended to run small % like B-5 or B-20 instead of 100% bio is due to the methanol used to produce biodiesel. it eats rubber....hoses, seals, orings, injection pump inards. You would have to have every rubber part changed to Vinton seals.

I avoid bio-diesel and run blends instead. But all my diesels are early 1980's vintage.