TowRig.com - Diesel Discussion and Tow Tech

I am trying to get my dodge cummins ready for our gooseneck and have to figure out what style of in bed reciever I want to go with. Our goosneck uses a 1 5/16" ball in the bed that goes up into the neck on the trailer, not a fifth wheel. A friend has the same style trailer and he just welded the ball to a big heavy steel plate 2'x2' and bolted it to the bed by drilling through both the plate and bed at each of the four corners. I am considering this way since it's probably the cheapest and need to still get a brake controller.

i have a B&W turnover ball. i have yet to see it in person, but it looks great in the pictures. im driving an 04.5 ram 3500 SRW short box 2WD. it was a litle expensive, but is load rated to 30k if i remember right. when not in use you turn over the ball and its nice and flat.

i dont like welding the hitches to the frame due to liability. its best to get a specific instal kit and use it. easier to prove not yoru fault if something goes wrong.
Grant

Do you have pictures of this setup? A link to where I could find the kit? I meant weld the ball on to a steel plate that is then bolted to the bed, but I like the idea of being able to flip the ball over.

I personally like the DrawTite offering, with the removeable ball. The whole hitch is under the bed, the only part exposed is the ball and safety chain loops, and when the ball is removed you only have two small loops exposed. They are 30K pound rated.

EDIT: Forgot the link. http://www.hitchestogo.com/gooseneck_hitches.htm

i do not. link is www.turnoverball.com (http://www.turnoverball.com)

they have all the pics and prices on the site.
Grant

Thanks for the links guys!;)

I am trying to get my dodge cummins ready for our gooseneck and have to figure out what style of in bed reciever I want to go with. Our goosneck uses a 1 5/16" ball in the bed that goes up into the neck on the trailer, not a fifth wheel. A friend has the same style trailer and he just welded the ball to a big heavy steel plate 2'x2' and bolted it to the bed by drilling through both the plate and bed at each of the four corners. I am considering this way since it's probably the cheapest and need to still get a brake controller.

Did you mean a 2 5/16"s ball? Your friends setup would have a subframe or crossmember under the bed that ties it into the main frame if it was done by a pro, have you looked underneath his truck?

Did you mean a 2 5/16"s ball? Your friends setup would have a subframe or crossmember under the bed that ties it into the main frame if it was done by a pro, have you looked underneath his truck? Yeah, I meant 2 5/16". He did not use anything under the bed, just a heavy guage 1/2" plate of steel 24"x24" bolted through the bed at each corner with the ball welded in the middle of the plate.

I have a friend that repairs big rig trucks and trailers plus installs hitches too. Be it a gooseneck or fifth wheel hitch in a pickup, it needs to be tied into the frame, not just bolted to the bed. Bolting the hitch to the bed only is asking for the hitch to tear away under the stress placed onto it. Would you trust a bumper hitch bolted only to the bed of a truck? I wouldn't!

That is why I posted asking for opinions on that setup and any other setups guys are using. I am probably going to go with one of the two systems that have links above.

Or if you have or might need a Reese 5th wheel hitch you could use this.

http://www.reese-hitches.com/images/goose2.jpg

RJF,

This is going to rub a few raw, but here is something to consider. If you live in TX, and want to have a Gooseneck hitch installed they weld their setup. If you go to RJ Trailer on the Internet, they and other even sell the U-Channel for the hitch. I don't disagree with the thoughts behind the idea of welding to a truck frame, but it has been done and is being done quite a bit. Most of the horse people have the hitches installed by local companies in TX, OK etc. And never have issues with them.



How you decide to do it is your choice. I welded my to the frame with a 1/2" channel and reinforced it to the frame then drilled it for the 2 5/16" ball. It worked out no problem and I have around $30.00 in the whole setup.



I tow heavy and I tow hard with my truck, and I have had the shops look at it that make custom hitches and they said no problems.



I won't defend my decision to anyone, but it's my opinion, and what I did.



I just bring a different opinion or idea to the discussion.



Rob

Thats basically what my dad did with his '76 C30. He welded a crossmember under the bed between the frame rails, cut a 4" hole in the bed right above it, drilled through his crossmember, welded a nut to the bottom of the crossmember, and screwed the ball right in through the crossmember and into the welded nut. He then welded the 4" whole to the crossmember to "seal" out water. It works great but am not interested really for my Dodge because I don't want to weld on it...but we'll see.

The one posted by SuperTrucker is the one I have. I got the 30,000 lb Reese 5th wheel setup with frame plates, and the 30,000 lb "Goosy" adapter. Over kill is good...

i just like the idea that IF something happens, i can say "they made it and tested it, it was instaled as per direction, sue them" thats just me. i fully agree that it is strong enough, more of a back up plan.

Grant

I anyone using the diamond hitch ?
any thoughts ?
http://www.diamondhitchinc.com

i just like the idea that IF something happens, i can say "they made it and tested it, it was instaled as per direction, sue them" thats just me. i fully agree that it is strong enough, more of a back up plan.

Grant


That will hardly work. What they send YOU is a box of metal. How YOU have it installed and how YOU use it is entirely on YOU. Towing is a whole new ballgame with placing blame. If your tires are underinflated or your rig is over/incorrectly loaded it is ultimately the drivers fault. The kicker is speed rating. Most towing related accessories (not just tires) have a lower speed rating (55-65) knowing that the big accidents happen above those speeds. Read the fine print.

I work at a tire shop and have seen everything while under the 1 tons. From the 1/2" plate with a ball welded in the bed to a custom $25K flat bed. The real heavy non CDL rigs (F550, Kodiaks, and Isuzu's) usually have a large C-channel welded between the rails and the ball bolted through it.

That will hardly work. What they send YOU is a box of metal. How YOU have it installed and how YOU use it is entirely on YOU. Towing is a whole new ballgame with placing blame. If your tires are underinflated or your rig is over/incorrectly loaded it is ultimately the drivers fault. The kicker is speed rating. Most towing related accessories (not just tires) have a lower speed rating (55-65) knowing that the big accidents happen above those speeds. Read the fine print.

I work at a tire shop and have seen everything while under the 1 tons. From the 1/2" plate with a ball welded in the bed to a custom $25K flat bed. The real heavy non CDL rigs (F550, Kodiaks, and Isuzu's) usually have a large C-channel welded between the rails and the ball bolted through it.

Every late model Class 8 truck I've seen has a warning not to weld the frame rails as it ruins the heat treatment. If you have a heat treated frame don't weld to it.

You have me corrected. I looked a little closer. The hitch is hard mounted to the flat bed wich is bolted on the frame. Some are still welded across the rail's though. I wasn't aware the most of the civy chassis' were heat treated. I know the kodiak 6500 and up is.

You have me corrected. I looked a little closer. The hitch is hard mounted to the flat bed wich is bolted on the frame. Some are still welded across the rail's though. I wasn't aware the most of the civy chassis' were heat treated. I know the kodiak 6500 and up is.

I don't know either if they're heat treated or not, but if they are you shouldn't weld them.

i have the resse system in my truck. not my first choice but i wanted one and wanted it that day. im a fan of the B&W turnouver ball. and they offer a 5th wheel companian that drops in where the goose ball pulls out of. i cant complain about the resse rail system though. i have the goose adaptor and 5th wheel plate for it and it works well but you always have the rails in the bed.

I have the B&W Turnover ball. It's the third truck I install it in and have always loved it. Had it in my 05 2500hd and my 2001 f350srw and now the 2006 dually. Have no complaints and loved the finished product.

I myself would like to have the B&W turn over myself

Being new here and not wanting to step on toes. I've been using the B&W turnover for quite a while now. LOVE IT! Just some advice, drop the spera and call a buddy (to help balance the parts while you start a few bolts their really not that heavy ). Good Luck.

That will hardly work. What they send YOU is a box of metal. How YOU have it installed and how YOU use it is entirely on YOU. Towing is a whole new ballgame with placing blame. If your tires are underinflated or your rig is over/incorrectly loaded it is ultimately the drivers fault. The kicker is speed rating. Most towing related accessories (not just tires) have a lower speed rating (55-65) knowing that the big accidents happen above those speeds. Read the fine print.



wow, this one is a bit old... i never saw it..

i didnt install the hitch. i wouldnt have been able to as i was in Iraq at the time. a towing accessory shop did it all. they have Ins for this, and i was more than happy to pay to have it done. last time i went through oregon, i drove over to the shop and had them Re Torque everything. they were VERY happy i asked them to do this and did it no cost. its the CYA deal...

as for the class b and class 8 trucks having been welded straight to the frame, yes i see it a lot. welding to the top of my frame isnt an option along with most frames out there anymore.

, i drove over to the shop and had them Re Torque everything. they were VERY happy i asked them to do this and did it no cost. its the CYA deal...



See, that right there is what you are supposed to do. Being aware and being responsible is what it is all about.

I'm wanting to drop a B&W Turnover ball in my F350.

I will also reccomend the B&W turnover ball. I have used one for 3 yrs. with no problems. These hitches are vehicle specific, most will bolt on/in place without any additional drilling.

They also have a sturdy 5th wheel hitch that uses the same gooseneck sub assembly for a very clean installation and removal.

Tom

So pretty much you get a 5TH and a Goose hitch in one combo.

Yes that's the way it works out. The 5th wheel hitch plugs into the same spot that the goose neck ball would, there is then a clamp screw that holds tension on the quick release rod that would hold the regular ball in place, securing the whole thing to the truck frame and snug to the bed.

The downside is the cost. The whole package probably would cost near $1000 if installed by a dealer. :eek:

The b&w is around $1200 installed, around here anyway. The reese that I have with the 5th and goose I have $1350 invested and i got a fabed goose ball, the reese goose is $500 which would have put me at $1600 for the reese system. I would sugest the B&W to anyone that was going to put either in thier truck. The priice is still on cue with the other makers and it is a nicer unit than the reese just cause you have a compleetly flat bed surface when either uint is not in use.

I was quoted $650.00 installed for the turn down ball I might have to get one more quote for the whole deal.

The 5th part there reallly is no "install" to just a bit of assembly. It just slides in where the goose ball goes. but I have seen it priced from $600 to $800 depends on you distributer and how much he wants to put in his pocket.

Hmmmm well I hope he wouldnt want much but you never know being your Fire Chief but I do understand the cost of being in business.

if anythig the B&W turnover ball is the way to go i can get one installed for as low as 400 bucks and thats what im putting in hands down.

I've put in 4 now between mine and friends, 2 self installs and 2 professional. One professional used a 4.25-4.5 inch hole saw (4" is spec) and just filled it in with black goo, looked like crap. both of my installs were measured 10 times and drilled once, took a lot of muscle to get it to slip in but looks great. Took only a couple hours, a big drill bit, and 2 guys for the second half the install, fairly easy. I wouldn't put anything else in. I also have the fifth wheel companion and pulled a 15000lbs 38ft fifthwheel with it. I love the combo, clean bed in 5 minutes. I think I got it for around $250-300 for the gooseneck and $600-650 for the companion.

So pretty much you get a 5TH and a Goose hitch in one combo.

They make kits that convert a 5th to a gooseneck on the trailer side. It bolts on to the kingpin (or can be welded) and allows you to use a normal bed mount goose set up ball. I found one for my dad since he refused to have rails in the bed and wanted a bigger trailer.

turnover is the way to go, very clean looking when installed

az-k5

This "companion" that you speak of, what is it? :confused:

The companion is the 5th wheel hitch assembly that connects to the already installed B&W sub frame.

Thanks :)

http://www.turnoverball.com/companion/index.htm
This hitch attached to the B&W Gooseneck hitch. No other holes are needed.

az-k5

This "companion" that you speak of, what is it? :confused:


Reguarding the converters that attach to the fifth wheel trailer to make it a gooseneck. I've heard some stories of broken welds and bent components when that's done. I'd avoid it. If you need both (I did) get the B&W with the companion.

B&W all the way

it goes away when you don't need it:cool:

i enjoy having mine after having a rail system.waytogo waytogo waytogo waytogo

Just out of curiosity, bout how much does one of those fancy companions go for and of course the turn over ball too. Do they make a 30K or just a 18K one?

i think around $400, i dont know ill have to check my prices

So, two and a half years later after asking what GN hitcth to go with, I finally bought one.rotfl

I bought a B&W turnoverball. Sure was a pain in the butt to install, especially with my 5" exhaust.

cool!! lets see some pics

This one is expensive but if you tow heavy it will be worth the money I think. They do offer a gooseneck hitch as well as the fifth wheel.

http://www.trailersaver.com/airsuspensionhitches_tslb2h.php

I have owned a 2000 Ford F250, a 2002 Dodge 3500, a 2006 Dodge 3500 and a 2007 Dodge 3500. I have had B&W turnover balls in all of them and have never had any trouble with them. I would recommend them to anyone.

The B&W is the best I have found, most functional, easiest to hook up to and rated at 30K

I like my B&W hicth put it on in about 3-1/2 hours with out pulling the factory panels out of the wheel wells heres some pics

a few more shots

a few more shots
hey, i love my B&W as stated before... but what is the point of the inverted ball hitch anyway? i need to get the plug for it because i think i hit the axle on the ball the other day... ouch!

hey, i love my B&W as stated before... but what is the point of the inverted ball hitch anyway? i need to get the plug for it because i think i hit the axle on the ball the other day... ouch!



the inverted hicth is for trailers with the ball on the mastwaytogo alot of folks around here use this setup and the other way:pimp:

I have for sale an inverted fifthwheel set-up with the binkely head made by Holland Hitch. 32,000k capacity.

http://charleston.craigslist.org/grd/557063023.html

the inverted hicth is for trailers with the ball on the mastwaytogo alot of folks around here use this setup and the other way:pimp:

ehh, i should have been more specific... whats the advantages of inverted VS regular...

well before the b&w it was about the only way to have a flat bed just stick a tennis ball in the hole to keep out the hay & trash and no ball stickn up in the waywaytogo I will try to take some pics of a welded in cupler for you this weekend