TowRig.com - Diesel Discussion and Tow Tech

I have a 2000 7.3PSD. Great truck. Has just over 41,000 miles, autotrans, 4x4. I regularly tow an 7000lbs trailer. Lately, it seems to have lost some power. The only mods the truck has is a Superchips "mild" chip, and a K&N air filter. Is there any way (inexpensive way) to open up or unchoke the truck? Get more power without tearing up the trans or burning up the motor? :confused: Anymore, the truck struggles to tow down the freeway at 70mph. And, the fuel economy is between 8 and 10mpg when towing. Thanks. Any help would be appreciated.

Sounds like the thing is to get back the power you lost.

Other than the obvious, like replace the fuel filter (when last changed?) and air filter (clean the K&N or replace, I'm not a fan of K&N personally), not much to say. I'm guessing this is not just the last tank of fuel either? Take a fuel sample and make sure it's clear, you might have picked up some bugs or something.

Hmmm, I don't know much about the PSD, but that's about all I can think of in the "likely" and easy to check/fix category. Beyond that, a clogged injector or low pressure on the fuel or something, maybe a balky turbo, something along those lines?

Getting more power is a different matter, you need to fix the basic problem to get back to your baseline before trying to do perf upgrades. I can't say what's safe or effective on early PSD, I'll leave that to others who know more.

I would start by replacing your fuel filter. Clean your air filter. As for low on power can you go more into detail. Does this only happen when loaded or empty? does it have a rough idle ect........ When was your last oil change?
I have seen on strokes dirty or wrong oil used cause a low power problem.
I have aslo seen where the turbo maybe going south on you. Best be would to check the basics if this does not help take the stroke to the dealer have them
run the test on it may be minor and you can do it your self all your out is diag fee's. Also you stroke has 5/100000 mile warrenty on the motor it maybe covered depending on the insevice date.

I changed the fuel filter about 500 miles ago with a NAPA. I just cleaned the K&N about 200 miles ago. I run the DELO 400 5w-40 and it has about 2500 miles (of mostly towing) on it. I change the oil every 3000 miles. Actually, I cannot hear the turbo whine anymore. And it does not help that the clutch fan runs so much in this hot weather. I will have the motor diagnosed. I wonder if boost at the turbo is down?

And, I've noticed that power is different depending upon the where I get fuel :confused: . Chevron seems to deliver more power. Does this make sense? I appreciate the advice.

Most all the fuel is the same, taken from the same lines, and then some companies mix in additives of one type or another. The main thing with diesel is that it remains "fresh", so it's best to get it from a high volume pump like truck stops. Unfortunately, I'm about 20 minutes (without traffic) from the nearest, so I get fuel from a local Chevron.

One other thing. Just because you changed the filter recently does not mean it's not plugged. If you got a tank full of trash or "bugs", it will plug up right away. I ALWAYS carry a spare WIX filter in my truck. Any time you feel a dramatic reduction in power that lasts more than one tank, you should change the filter since that is frequently the problem and is easy/cheap to do. When you remove the filter, if possible (not on the road or something) you should also cut off the shell and see what is inside so you'll know what's going on.

One other thing. Just because you changed the filter recently does not mean it's not plugged. If you got a tank full of trash or "bugs", it will plug up right away. I ALWAYS carry a spare WIX filter in my truck. Any time you feel a dramatic reduction in power that lasts more than one tank, you should change the filter since that is frequently the problem and is easy/cheap to do. When you remove the filter, if possible (not on the road or something) you should also cut off the shell and see what is inside so you'll know what's going on.

When I bought one of my Petes I was changing fuel filters every 1-3k miles till all the crap got flushed out of the tanks. Took about 6 months till I could go 6-10k miles on a set of filters.

IIRC, the turbo whine on the Fords is quite loud. If you can not hear the turbo anymore and you could always before than you probably found your problem. I would check in on the turbo to make sure it is putting out proper boost.

Key word. "Don't hear the turbo anymore" Check for a hose to be off or leaking in the turbo plumbing. A hose off/leaking will cause the turbo not to work properly. A lot of the time you can't hear it from inside the cab. Take a look. If a hose has blown off clean it with some solvent and spray the sealing surface with hairspray before reinstalling it. It won't blow off anymore. ;)

My 2000 Ford tows like nothing is back there. You need to have your truck checked out, a scan and a road test by a shop that knows the 7.3l powerstroke.

If you don't mind sharing, what mods have you done? "chipped"? any transmissions problems? how heavy of a trailer do you tow? fuel mileage empty and towing? any advice appreciated. thanks.

I am running a EDGE Programer from BD performance. With BD porgraming. This is the best and easyest preformance improver I have ever used. I work in a diesel fuel repair shop and have been installing chips, turbos, exhaust, intercoolers, air filter systems, pumps and injectors on Ford, Dodge, and Gm pickups and light trucks plus motor homes for the past 15 years. I have a 2000 Ford f250 4x4 auto trans. 3.73 gears this programer a third generation Ford air filter{Donalson} 4 inch turbo back exhaust, extra trans cooler, an extra 2 quart aluminum trans pan, exhaust and trans temp gauges. I pull a 29 foot fifthwheel with 2 slides wights in loaded at about 11,500lb. Towing I get 11 to 13 mpg empty in town I get 15 to 17 mpg on the hiway I get 16 to 21 mpg. It all has to do with how heavy a foot I have.{Driving habits} I change my oil every 3500 miles with Delo400 15/40 fuel filter every other oil change. For me I only put about 8000 to 9000 miles a year and 1500 of that is vacation. This is my sixth Ford three gas three diesel. I have 44,000 on this truck had 36,000 miles when I bought it a year ago. Have had no problems.

My 2000 is between 14 and 16 in town, 17 and 20 on the highway (light loads) but only 8 to 10 when towing 8000lbs down the freeway at 70. She has a hard time holding 70 (nearly floored) when towing but the clutch fan is on which does suck hp and torque. But, it does seem to run the best when it's a 100f with a light load. It loves the heat. I've gotten 22mpg at 55mph with 1000lbs in the bed and temp of 105f. The Superchip chip works well as far as I can tell. the trans shifts great and power is better. I think I will get the motor diagnosed. thanks for the advice.

If you check your trubo and it is good, look at your oil. If you are using Rotella T, you may be experienceing oil foaming. I have a '99 and a 2000 and both trucks experienced low power when using rotella. Both trucks had rotella from day one and ran fine until about a year ago. Once I figured the problem out and switched to mobil delvac the trucks instantly changed for the better. Not sure if rotella's quality is down or what, but it seems to be a more common problem in trucks running rotella recently. The problem is that the psd high pressure injection pump is oil driven and when the oil gets hot, like in towing, it foams and causes the pump not to supply full pressure, thus losing power and fuel economy. Both trucks picked up about 2 mpg after changing to delvac.

There is an additive for the oil just for the foaming, then you can use any diesel rated oil. I use this with delo 400 15/40

There is an additive for the oil just for the foaming, then you can use any diesel rated oil. I use this with delo 400 15/40


I use the Delo 400 too. My mileage has been poor to say the least and power does seem down. Recently, and with a light load (300 lbs in bed and only me in cab), I have been getting 13 mpg at highway speeds of 55 to 60mph. A guy here at work has the same truck (except it's a long bed) and he gets 13mpg while towing a four horse trailer with horses!!! I get 8mpg while towing a mere 2500lbs camp trailer!!! It's been to a mechanic but they found nothing wrong.
I might have to take it out behind the barn.....
:confused:

If you check your trubo and it is good, look at your oil. If you are using Rotella T, you may be experienceing oil foaming. I have a '99 and a 2000 and both trucks experienced low power when using rotella. Both trucks had rotella from day one and ran fine until about a year ago. Once I figured the problem out and switched to mobil delvac the trucks instantly changed for the better. Not sure if rotella's quality is down or what, but it seems to be a more common problem in trucks running rotella recently. The problem is that the psd high pressure injection pump is oil driven and when the oil gets hot, like in towing, it foams and causes the pump not to supply full pressure, thus losing power and fuel economy. Both trucks picked up about 2 mpg after changing to delvac.


Are you sure that you were using rotell t oil? I have never heard of r0tella causing low power or breaking down and foaming. It has anti-foaming additives in it that prevents that. I have never heard of the common problem you are speaking of, actually, rotella is is oil of choice for millions of diesel owners as well as international.

As for the low pwer, if the oil is dirty, you will definitely experiance low power. Change your oil first to see if the problem goes away. Also dump a quart of diesel kleen grey bottle in the tank to clean your injectors(full tank). Dont worry, a quart wont hurt it at all.

Let us know the outcome, if those dont work, i may have another possible solution.waytogo

I have tried the Rotella T full syn 5w-40. I did not notice anything different. Ran it in the winter thinking it would light a bit better. I run the Delo 400 15w-40 and change the oil every 3000 miles. The poor economy and power is baffling to me. the mechanic did say that there was chance that a screen? under the fuel filter assembly? could be clogged? :confused:
I can't remember the exact specifics of his idea for a reason of the problem. I will call the guy back and perhaps get it in. He said it would be about $100 to tear into it. :eek:

Try this:

Drain the fuel bowl.
Remove the fuel filter
Close drain valve
Fill filter bowl up with diesel kleen "grey bottle"
Replace filter and cap

Drive for about 30 min.

If that doesnt do it, then you may have a loose wire harness under the valve cover. (easy fix)

Has it shut off on you at all?

Try this:

Drain the fuel bowl.
Remove the fuel filter
Close drain valve
Fill filter bowl up with diesel kleen "grey bottle"
Replace filter and cap

Drive for about 30 min.

If that doesnt do it, then you may have a loose wire harness under the valve cover. (easy fix)

Has it shut off on you at all?



as a matter of fact, the Cam Sensor went out back in August. I had it replaced by the dealer. real bummer to pull up to an intersection and have the motor die!

will running that straight "Kleen" into the engine be harmful?

if the "Kleen" method does not work, can you tell me which valve cover side to pull? Funny that the dealer's computer scan tool did not reveal a loose wire (if it's the problem)

Nah, running the "Kleen" wont hurt it at all. It helps tremendiously. If you have any dirty or clogged injectors or filter screens, it will clean it out. It also lubesthe system for you. There are a lot of guys including myself that fill the bowl with diesel kleen at every filter change.

There are no codes for a loose wire harness, the code usually, but not always, comes up as something wrong with the fuel delivery or injectors.. It a tossup on which side is loose.

Be careful at the stealership! They will have buying all kinds of stuff you dont need. Did you pull any codes? If you did let me know what they are.

When you put the pedel to the metal, do you notice any smoke?

as a matter of fact, the Cam Sensor went out back in August. I had it replaced by the dealer. real bummer to pull up to an intersection and have the motor die!

will running that straight "Kleen" into the engine be harmful?

if the "Kleen" method does not work, can you tell me which valve cover side to pull? Funny that the dealer's computer scan tool did not reveal a loose wire (if it's the problem)



It will actually send half back into the tank. Our truck cycle the fuel. It does this because in cold weather, to keep the fuel in the tank from gelling, it sends hot fuel from the fuel bowl to the tank. So basically, only half of whats in the fuel bowl gets used.

Be careful at the stealership! They will have buying all kinds of stuff you dont need. Did you pull any codes? If you did let me know what they are.

When you put the pedel to the metal, do you notice any smoke?


yeah, they (Lithia) wanted $1700 to fix "everything". they claimed I had a loose downtube but there was not black smoke on the firewall, and they claimed I had another bad sensor. They claimed they had to pull the tranny to get to the downtubes. I took it to another diesel mechanic for a second opinion. Cam sensor was the only thing wrong. no other codes came up but I will double check with mechanic. true! stay away from dealers if you can.

I have never seen any black smoke when heavy on the wire. I will floor it (at $3/gallon) and let you know. I appreciate the advice.
waytogo

I sure hate to hear that story about the stealer! WE replace downpipe all the time here, that very simple to do, about 20 min. with one person and a beer.

Those cps have been knownto fail a lot, get it from the international dealer, they cost around $90 there and only about 6 min to replace. (Use a 10mm socket)

If you dont an international dealer near, i have one about 5 min away and I can get it for you and send it to you.

No black smoke id good. But if you put it to the floor, you will see some which is normal.

Glad i can helpwaytogo

Take a look at this shop manual
http://www.nav-international.com.br/frame_master.asp?tipo=powerStroke&pg=manual_i/powerStroke/hs.asp

I sure hate to hear that story about the stealer! WE replace downpipe all the time here, that very simple to do, about 20 min. with one person and a beer.

Those cps have been knownto fail a lot, get it from the international dealer, they cost around $90 there and only about 6 min to replace. (Use a 10mm socket)

If you dont an international dealer near, i have one about 5 min away and I can get it for you and send it to you.

No black smoke id good. But if you put it to the floor, you will see some which is normal.

Glad i can helpwaytogo

Take a look at this shop manual
http://www.nav-international.com.br/frame_master.asp?tipo=powerStroke&pg=manual_i/powerStroke/hs.asp

Well, I added a 1/2 bottle of Power Service in the gray bottle to the tank and directly to the fuel filter bowl (drained all fuel first) and now, the truck is harder to start (at cool temps from 17f to 35f) and it seems to be mis-firing at startup too. it basically turns over more at startup and idles very, very rough at startup. mileage? hard to say but does not appear to have been helped and power seems to be the same. Next, I will check under the valve cover for a pesky loose wire.

You may need to change your injector o-rings. Have you noticed a slight mix of diesel in your oil?


Hmmm......misfires......is your hpop (high pressure oil pump) leaking at all anywhere?

Oil starvation also cuses some of your symptoms.

What type oil filter are you using?

possible ipr issue, but doesnt sound like it

You may need to change your injector o-rings. Have you noticed a slight mix of diesel in your oil?


Hmmm......misfires......is your hpop (high pressure oil pump) leaking at all anywhere?

Oil starvation also cuses some of your symptoms.

What type oil filter are you using?

possible ipr issue, but doesnt sound like it



injector o-rings? are they expensive to replace? :eek:

when I "plug" the engine in, it starts much, much easier and runs smooth at startup - but when started "cold", she grumbles...

I have not noticed any other "oil" in the engine oil but will look the next time I change it - not far away.

I am running Delo 400 15w-40 and a motorcraft FL1995 oil filter and have always used them. I change both at 3000 miles since I use the truck mostly for towing an 8000lbs trailer. The truck has 45,000 miles of mostly highway driving - it's not a city truck.

thanks again for the advice.

Nah, injector o-ring are no dig deal. The o-ring kit itself costs about $16 and the rest is pretty easy. just pull the valve covers and , take out the injectors, and replace the o-rings on the injectors (one at a time and replace them as you go.

Glad you told me about plugging it in.waytogo That put a whole new light on it.

This usually indicates a problem with the glow plug system.
Disconnect the Engine Oil Temp (EOT) sensor at the rear of the oil reservoir. This will cause the PCM to energize the glow plug relay for 2 minutes, and set a code. Turn the key to the run position and check for any voltage drop at the outlet side of the glow plug relay. The voltage should be greater than 10 volts during the glow plug cycle.
There is a history of burned and melted relay terminals and a couple of updated relays. Most recent part number is F7TZ-12B533-CA and can be identified by a gold-colored base.
If there is no voltage out of the relay, check for voltage in at the main terminal as well as key power and PCM-controlled ground at the two-wire connector. On 97 and newer vehicles inspect the bank circuit divider shunt for damage. If the relay tests fine test the glow plug resistance to ground at the valve cover connectors. The glow plug terminals are the outer two on 94-97, outer four on 98.5/99. Resistance should be 0.1-6 ohms depending on engine temp. A high reading could be the result of a spread or damaged Under Valve Cover harness or damaged valve cover gasket; re-check any high readings at the glow plug itself. Damaged UVC harnesses can be repaired with kits F7TZ-14489-AA for 97 and -BA for 94-96 trucks or replaced with F4TZ-9D930-K for 94-97 trucks or F81Z-9D930-AB on 98.5/99. Resitance from the glow plug relay to the valve cover connertors is 0-1 ohm. If no other faults are found, allow the vehicle to sit overnight. Before starting the engine, set the scan tool to monitor data stream and pick the EOT and Intake Air Temp sensors. The EOT and IAT should be within five degrees of each other. Next, remove the level-check plug from the HP oil pump reservoir and check the oil temperature with a thermometer to verify the EOT reading. If the EOT reading is higher than ambient (IAT) temperature, the PCM may be activating the glow plugs for too short a time, or not at all. If the problem only occurs at high altitude, and there is no glow plug system failures, the BARO sensor is most likley at fault.
Some 97 trucks have experienced a check engine light on after starting with Glow Plug Monitor circuit codes P1391, P1393, P1395 and P1396. After checking the glow plugs and the harnesses as in the above procedure, install a breakout box and check the GPM circuit to the PCM--GPML, LH bank terminal to pin 34; GPMR, RH bank terminal to pin 9; GPMH, relay output terminal to pin 8

Sorry for the long post, but......

If you need instructions for most anything one these trucks, let me know, its my pleasurewaytogo

Nah, injector o-ring are no dig deal. The o-ring kit itself costs about $16 and the rest is pretty easy. just pull the valve covers and , take out the injectors, and replace the o-rings on the injectors (one at a time and replace them as you go.

Glad you told me about plugging it in.waytogo That put a whole new light on it.

This usually indicates a problem with the glow plug system.
Disconnect the Engine Oil Temp (EOT) sensor at the rear of the oil reservoir. This will cause the PCM to energize the glow plug relay for 2 minutes, and set a code. Turn the key to the run position and check for any voltage drop at the outlet side of the glow plug relay. The voltage should be greater than 10 volts during the glow plug cycle.
There is a history of burned and melted relay terminals and a couple of updated relays. Most recent part number is F7TZ-12B533-CA and can be identified by a gold-colored base.
If there is no voltage out of the relay, check for voltage in at the main terminal as well as key power and PCM-controlled ground at the two-wire connector. On 97 and newer vehicles inspect the bank circuit divider shunt for damage. If the relay tests fine test the glow plug resistance to ground at the valve cover connectors. The glow plug terminals are the outer two on 94-97, outer four on 98.5/99. Resistance should be 0.1-6 ohms depending on engine temp. A high reading could be the result of a spread or damaged Under Valve Cover harness or damaged valve cover gasket; re-check any high readings at the glow plug itself. Damaged UVC harnesses can be repaired with kits F7TZ-14489-AA for 97 and -BA for 94-96 trucks or replaced with F4TZ-9D930-K for 94-97 trucks or F81Z-9D930-AB on 98.5/99. Resitance from the glow plug relay to the valve cover connertors is 0-1 ohm. If no other faults are found, allow the vehicle to sit overnight. Before starting the engine, set the scan tool to monitor data stream and pick the EOT and Intake Air Temp sensors. The EOT and IAT should be within five degrees of each other. Next, remove the level-check plug from the HP oil pump reservoir and check the oil temperature with a thermometer to verify the EOT reading. If the EOT reading is higher than ambient (IAT) temperature, the PCM may be activating the glow plugs for too short a time, or not at all. If the problem only occurs at high altitude, and there is no glow plug system failures, the BARO sensor is most likley at fault.
Some 97 trucks have experienced a check engine light on after starting with Glow Plug Monitor circuit codes P1391, P1393, P1395 and P1396. After checking the glow plugs and the harnesses as in the above procedure, install a breakout box and check the GPM circuit to the PCM--GPML, LH bank terminal to pin 34; GPMR, RH bank terminal to pin 9; GPMH, relay output terminal to pin 8

Sorry for the long post, but......

If you need instructions for most anything one these trucks, let me know, its my pleasurewaytogo

this is all beyond my capabilities and requires equipment I don't have but I can and will pass this on to the mechanic. they have been relying mostly on computer codes for which there are none to indicate a problem. They did check the glow plugs though since the truck has become harder and harder to start over the past year. I believe they checked the resistance? can't remember how they said they did it.

Power and economy have never been as great as others have claimed but the truck seems to love hot weather. The best mileage I ever got was 21mpg at 105f ambient temp, AC on, 1500 lbs gear and people, at 55 to 60mph. It does not perform well in the cold probably due to cold oils/fluids, incomplete burn, "lousier" fuel, etc.

again, thanks.

THERE COULD BE A PROB WITH ENGINE TEMPS, FUEL DELIVERY OR BOTH?

POOR POWER & THE WIERD TEMP RELATED PROBS HE MENTIONED ARE NOT NORMAL.

WHY THE FAN RUN SO MUCH?
IS IT GETTING HOT ON THE GAUGE?
IS IT MISSING (QUICK JERKING/SHAKING) AT SPEED?
IS THE COOLING SYSTEM FULL (RADIATOR & OVERFLOW TANK)?
DID I UNDERSTAND HE'S USING (TRYING) BLOCK HEATER AT WARM TEMPS TO HELP IT START?
DOES THE HEATER WORK WELL?

I'VE NOT WORKED MUCH ON PSDs BUT DO UNDERSTAND MACHINERY & HAVE OWNED & DRIVEN MANY DIESELS. MINE IS A STOCK '99 PSD. THEY SHOULD RUN FINE COLD OR HOT.

WHILE IT WOULD BE EASIER TO DIAGNOSE THE TRUCK 'IN PERSON', WE SHOULD BE ABLE TO AT LEAST HELP FIGURE THIS THING OUT...

LET US KNOW SOME DETAILS SO WE CAN FIGURE IT OUT. HOPE WE CAN HELP..-TED-NC

AND REPAIR IS THE DIESELMANN: http://www.intellidog.com/dieselmann/home.html

HE MAY HELP YOU, I'VE EMAILED HIM ABOUT MINE...

TED-NC

PS. SURE WOULD LIKE TO DITCH THAT "HALF TON HAULER" CRAP THEY STUCK ON HERE. MY TRUCK WEIGHS ABOUT 13,000 LBS BY ITSELF!

Welcome aboard Ted. The title just has to do with you being a "newbie" on this board, and will go away with more participation. It's based on post count and provides a way to see who is more vs. less active on the site. It's pretty lame as a general gauge of competence or experience, but an accepted (and expected) feature of most all on-line forums.

One word of advice though. When posting online, using all caps is considered "SHOUTING" and should not be used all the time. It also makes your posts hard to read, and many people get pretty upset when having to look at it all the time. We're pretty laid-back here, but I'm sure everyone will appreciate it a great deal if you use normal mixed caps typing.

THERE COULD BE A PROB WITH ENGINE TEMPS, FUEL DELIVERY OR BOTH?

POOR POWER & THE WIERD TEMP RELATED PROBS HE MENTIONED ARE NOT NORMAL.

WHY THE FAN RUN SO MUCH?
IS IT GETTING HOT ON THE GAUGE?
IS IT MISSING (QUICK JERKING/SHAKING) AT SPEED?
IS THE COOLING SYSTEM FULL (RADIATOR & OVERFLOW TANK)?
DID I UNDERSTAND HE'S USING (TRYING) BLOCK HEATER AT WARM TEMPS TO HELP IT START?
DOES THE HEATER WORK WELL?

I'VE NOT WORKED MUCH ON PSDs BUT DO UNDERSTAND MACHINERY & HAVE OWNED & DRIVEN MANY DIESELS. MINE IS A STOCK '99 PSD. THEY SHOULD RUN FINE COLD OR HOT.

WHILE IT WOULD BE EASIER TO DIAGNOSE THE TRUCK 'IN PERSON', WE SHOULD BE ABLE TO AT LEAST HELP FIGURE THIS THING OUT...

LET US KNOW SOME DETAILS SO WE CAN FIGURE IT OUT. HOPE WE CAN HELP..-TED-NC



the clutch fan does not run "on high" (you can't hear it roar) except when towing under hot temps (maybe 85f and above). Occasionally it will run when hot at slow speeds. Never runs in the cold.

the cooling system is healthy. Just had it serviced this past summer (by a Stealer). System is full.

The guage does not register hot. Always registers in the normal range or place where it has always been. Engine heats up fine (based on guage and cab heater).

It runs absolutely fantasitic under speed or idle when hot (except for the reduced power and poor fuel economy). no jerking, no surging, etc. It is hard to start (starter turns over more) and even harder to start when cold - say, 30f and below. The other day it was 25f and when I started it (not plugged in) it ran very, very rough. Whole truck was shaking. thought the engine mounts were going to break! Extremely nasty idle. It did smooth out after a few minutes.

if you start it by plugging in the block heater overnight, it starts much better but it still cranks over a bit more than it used to. At least the idle is smooth immediately upon startup. In the past, I've started the truck un-assisted (no plug heater) at 0°F so I know it once started better. I've owned it since new. Have tried different diesel fuel stations, Power Service gray bottle and Amsoil additives but still no change. The fuel filter is new. the oil is Delo 400 15w-40, motorcraft filter. The oil has 2000 miles under it.

The other day, I towed a 6000 lbs camp trailer (mostly highway driving at between 50 and 60mph) I got 9 miles per gallon. A week later, I drove it with no load and no trailer on the highway at 75mph and got 13 miles per gallon. A guy here at work has the exact same truck exept it's a long bed, F-350 (mine is a short bed, F-250) and he gets 13 mpg when towing his 4 horse 5th wheel trailer. I get 13 to 14 empty! Our trucks are each year 2000. Mine used to get 17 to 18 empty on the highway.

it's with the mechanic right now. I will share what I find out if I find out anything at all. Thanks for all the advice. Friendly forum....waytogo

Any findings on your truck yet?

May also want to have them check your turbo wheel.

Any findings on your truck yet?

May also want to have them check your turbo wheel.


again, they found nothing wrong. The glow plug system is perfect. Your procedure/advice was spot on. I gave them a copy. No bad codes in the computer either.

Ironically, I was thinking about taking the truck back to them and testing the boost pressure. I did have a turbo go bad way back just after I got the truck. It was leaking oil, power was poor, and 10mpg empty. I think boost pressure under hard aceleration was around 17psi? the mechanic should know that.

on a brighter note, the starting situation is getting easier. Must have been a bad batch of fuel? It fires up much easier when cold and idles good too.

I will let you know after we test the turbo.
thanks again for all the help.

Any findings on your truck yet?

May also want to have them check your turbo wheel.

nothing yet....
but, I do have a question. What should the boost pressure be at full throttle? with no chip? and with a "mild" (60hp) SuperChip? I am wondering if my turbo is acting up? not working up to it's full potential as when new. What's a good test for the turbo? thanks again!

nothing yet....
but, I do have a question. What should the boost pressure be at full throttle? with no chip? and with a "mild" (60hp) SuperChip? I am wondering if my turbo is acting up? not working up to it's full potential as when new. What's a good test for the turbo? thanks again!

The normal boost should be about 15-18psi with your foot to the floor. Normal driving around town should be about 12-13psi.

with mild chip you prolly wil get about 22psi, not sure about with the chips.

What are you getting?

The normal boost should be about 15-18psi with your foot to the floor. Normal driving around town should be about 12-13psi.

with mild chip you prolly wil get about 22psi, not sure about with the chips.

What are you getting?



With an older "Superchip" 60hp chip, we tested the truck yesterday and got 14psi (consistantly) with a scan tool and with the pedal to the floor. What does this mean? what would the fix be?

And the truck was a real DOG without the chip but we did not test boost pressure without the chip.
thanks again for your help.

With an older "Superchip" 60hp chip, we tested the truck yesterday and got 14psi (consistantly) with a scan tool and with the pedal to the floor. What does this mean? what would the fix be?

And the truck was a real DOG without the chip but we did not test boost pressure without the chip.
thanks again for your help.

Sounds like a bad turbo or turbo wheel. Most likely its just the turbo wheel. Take the air intake hose off (leading from the air filter to the turbo) Look into the turbo once it is removed and describe to me in GREAT DETAIL what you see. Could be as simple as replaceing the turbo wheel because its coked (cooked) up with burned oil or its spinning off balance and has damaged the fins.

Do you let it idle much? Do you immediately shut it off after a hard tow or long highway use?

Here are a couple of photos if the turbo.

First Pic: off balanced wheel that has damaged fins
Second Pic: Really healthy turbo

Note. oil in the turbo is normal, burned oil on the turbo wheel "is" a problem.

Do you let it idle much? Do you immediately shut it off after a hard tow or long highway use?

I probably did let it idle too much when I first got it back in 2000 and 2001 (first diesel) as I knew that starting was hard on them. I would often let it idle for 10 or 15 minutes or longer when I was in a store. :o (The truck is not a daily driver) Now, I don't let it idle as much - just a good warm up when cold or quick trips into a store.

After pushing it hard on the freeway, I ALWAYS and have always let it cool for 5 or 10 minutes before I shut her down. I realize the importance of cooling the oil and turbo down before shutdown.

do you think the excessive ideling of the past was hard on the turbo? or something else? :eek:

Here are a couple of photos if the turbo.

First Pic: off balanced wheel that has damaged fins
Second Pic: Really healthy turbo

Note. oil in the turbo is normal, burned oil on the turbo wheel "is" a problem.

also, as a Christmas gift from myself to myself, I installed a 14 guage, 4inch exhaust and downtube. The exhaust shop told me that I would hear the turbo "whistle" a lot more. I used to hear it once in a while. I don't hear it anymore...and have not heard it in years.

The turbo is as quiet as a church mouse.....:eek:

also, do I have to remove the turbo from the truck??? or can we inspect it on the vehicle?
thank you!

Nah, you dont have to remove it at all. Just undo the rubber/plastic air tube that connects the air box to the turbo and take a flashlight and take a look see.

Idleing isnt that much of a prob and wouldnt do anything to the turbo. I just wanted to know because it leads to wet-stacking and that will cause performace problems in the cylinder walls. Idleing the psd at normal islde, which is about 680rpms, isnt good for extended periods. You can let it idle all day long at 1200-1300rpms. The high idle keeps the engine warm enough to burn all the fuel in the cylinders. Thus preventing wet-stacking. all wetstacking is, is unburned fuel left over causing deposits. and after a while it will cause probs.

Invest in an apcm (aic) from ford, its worth its weight in gold. I got mine off ebay. The stealer may want anywhere between $400-$700 for it. Ebay usually for about $250. If you happen to find one really chep like I did, $25, because it didnt have the wiring harness, then get it because i have the part numbers for a replacement harness. For will tell you there is no replacement harness. Dont believe them. btw, the harness was $50.

apmc= Auxiliary Powertrain Control Module
also known as an aic= Auxillary idle controller

btw, the idling thing doesnt just pertain to the PSD, all diesels need them, big rigs, ambulances, service vehicles etc... already have them form the factory.