I am new here, I am 16 and i was going to buy a 1986 ford with a 6.9, but this saturday i am picking up my new truck. It is a 1991 dodge d250 with a cummins in it. It is the intercooled version, it has high miles, but it has a new injector pump, injectors radiator, intercooler and a lot more. It is a 5 speed. The body is not bad other than a rust spot on the roof that has started to go through, and some small bubbles along the windshield. For the roof, i plan to cut the section out and fabricate a patch, and bodo sand and re-paint it. For the windshield part, i am going to clean it up and use some rust neutralizer and bondo. Fenders, hood, doors and bed are new. Good paint. Overall a good truck, and i only paid 2,000!!! I was wondering if there are any lifts for the 2x4s? I will be using this truck to tow a bobcat, and my chevy stepside 4 wheeling truck. Will this be able to tow it OK?
See if you can get a experince body man to handle it for you sometimes they make panel you basically glue in place see iof they got em for that model.
Well, i got the truck finally. 1991 dodge d250 cummins. I do not like how low it sits, and i want to lift it up a little. Any suggestions? I am going to put a body lift on it, and modify my intercooler lines. Will D350 coils give me any lift? Also, are there any spring spacers that i can use? I found a set of hard rubber ones from JC whitney. Are there any other lift options. Looking for about 2-3" of suspension lift and a 3" body lift.
a 3/4 ton truck even a two wheel drive shouldnt sit to low I think you might want to look into the reason why its sits low first.As for a body lift JC Whitteny or any four wheel drive shop can have a kit for under a hundred bucks.Look to Fabtech or Kore for a lift and I am not honestly sure they are made that far back.On the string from a 350 yes they will fit and will give you a bit more lift might even be the cheapest route to be had and yes they do make spring spacers check your auto parts store for them they should be under a hundred as well.
well, most of the d-series trucks sit very low. My plans are to get a 3" body lift, and modify my intercooler lines. I will be getting some Moog heavy duty springs, and using a 2.5" spring spacer for a chevy C-series truck. This will level it out and lift it about 5" total. I plan to run 33" mud-terrains, and i am saving up to buy a 4x4 frame and convert it over to a 4x4 before next winter.
low THE YOUTH IS WASTED ON THE YOUNG!!!!!! My 03 DRW 2wd was high enough for me to crawl under it to change oil without a jack or ramps!! But it did look kinda low! If I had been 20 years younger, it would have looked awful!!!! But being a old fort has its plus's. I dont have to put in lifts, bigger tires and speakers!!! I can spend my money on beer, horses, and horsepower!!! Durn the looks!!!! bEING bald IS JUST A STATE OF MIND. and a bit draftey in the winter!!!
also be careful how high you lift the thing. the higher you lift a truck the more you're asking to go wrong with it. if there is not a lift kit built specifically for that truck don't combine a bunch of different parts. i have a buddy who has a newer f-150... he parted together his own lift and completely ruined his suspension and now he has to buy the nice lift that he should have gotten in the 1st place. although it seems like you know enough about trucks to build quality stuff... i always give my truck to someone else to work on so i dont mess anything up haha.
Here is what you will find under that rust; This is why the front of our roofs rusts out! This may be old news, but if anyone wonders why Dodges rust out in the front of the roof, it's because of a brace located just behind the roof skin. I just cut the front of my roof skin off to repair the rust beneath it, and man what a surprise. It's way worse than I thought. This is about the forth Dodge truck I've repaired, in the roof area, and this is the worst one internally. It only had some rust in the drip rail about 8 inches across. But, you can see from the pics that it rusted all the way through the frame work. Something I do to stop, or all least slow this problem way down is to rust proof the inside of the roof skin. The trick is to drill 3 holes on the inside behind the brace and through it. I drill one in the center and then one between the sunvisor hole and the center hole on each side the same distance from the edge as the sunvisor holes. My 87 had this done when it was new, but still rusted because they didn't drill through the brace also. This alows you to spray rust proofing between the roof skin and the brace and hopefully stop it from ever rusting through, if it hasn't all ready. If you have clearance lights you can spray through there. I use 3M Rust Fighter I, its basically military cosmoline. To tell if yours is rusting you can push on the outside of the roof skin along the front, and if you hear a crunch noise, then you've got rust. Mine had a good half pound of flakes sandwiched in there. Attached Images
You are asking for trouble lifting a 2wd that much. If you do you will have to do it right and spring spacers is not the way to go. Asmall body lift is ok but when you try to space the coils you will throw off all your front end geometry and alignments. Trade for a 4X4 if you want it high. Just my expierence and 2 cents worth.
