Is this an ok way to tie the rear end of my rig. I've seen it done but I'm not sure if its the right way to do things.http://home.earthlink.net/~jetmanjay/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/tiedown.jpg
no, you need to have the straps pull the truck backwards. it keeps the turck centered, but nothing to keep it from rolling forewards/back a bunch. there are oval shappped wrecker holes in your frame rail, get a ratchet end that fits into the who and use that going backwards toward the end of the trailer.
You may be right about the rig moving but I don't think my Jeep is going to move backward or frontward. Besides the parking brake it's in low range and first gear. Low range is 4:1 gearing system, it shouldn't let the rig do much moving around. I have tried the factory tail hold but the straps are crossing the fuel tank skid and not getting the Jeep compressed enough for me. By using the stinger and d-ring mount I can compress the rear end more. There are no problems with the front, I'm using the factory tie down points and cross tying the front.
I have always been told you should cross the straps and go around the axle never to the body to allow the suspension to compress. Ira
I have a couple of friend that have custom car and they tie them down using the frame. I know it can be done both ways(frame or axles). To me not having the rig bounce around on the trailer is a plus. If I can compress the suspension, that will stop the bounce. I would check and make sure nothing loosens up during any trip I take. The more I look at it the more I think I'd better cross tie to the frame(on the back). It will still take the bounce out and would pull the rig toward the back. The front cross tie would be pulling the rig toward the front. I'm thinking this would be much better and safer.
The reason I've always been told to tie trucks down by their axles is that there's so much travel in the suspension that unless you compress it to the bump stops, it'll compress over large bumps and snap back on your straps/chains leading to quite a shock load. I tie a full size chevy down by the axles and the sway isn't a problem.
Not sure why everyone gets so hung up on "pulling down the suspension". I haul my heavy 4 place "truggy" with flexy suspension tying only the axles, and I never notice it back there. IMO, letting it's suspension handle some of the inertial loads also keeps lots of stress off the trailer. I've done this with many towed and towing rigs of various sizes and have no concern about it. But that point is debatable, and obviously you've made your decision. Still, you can not under any circumstances trust to your brakes and gear on the hauled rig. Yes, always set them, but don't even factor them into your considerations of whether the rigging is "good" or not. You really MUST put a catch chain/strap on that is oriented to keep the rig from going forward in a panic stop or collision. Those side-to-side straps on the back are no where near adequate IMO. Fronts are not such a big deal since they only have to deal with hill climbs and acceleration, which is not that big a deal I don't care how "bombed" the tow rig is. But even my fronts are at more of an angle than that, probably 45* or close to it. And the backs are maybe kicked off about 20* from in line with the direction of travel. And if I'm going to be doing a lot of highway running, going to Moab, or Las Cruces or something, I add a "safety" chain straight from front to back and tied to a cross member that nothing else is tied to, just in case I'm in a hard collision and the straps break or the rear cross member is damaged. Also, if I'm not mistaken, in a collision (or any very rapid decel) event, you are placing WAY more load on those straps with that extreme angle than you would be if they were in line with the force they are acting on.
Point well taken and I'm hearing what your saying(BadDog & Mikey-do5). Thats why I posted, to get opinions on the best and safest way to haul my Jeep. I have axle straps so theres no problem in hooking up that way. I'll tie the rig down with the axle straps and see if I like the way it rides. Again thanks for the input. I'm soaking it all up.
he he, this is the big debate... on a smaller rig it doesnt matter to much, but on an off road rig with lots of suspension in my experience, (used to drive tow truck waytogo ) it is a lot better ride to ratchet the suspension down. to the origonal poster, i would pull the rig fwd a bit and then stap it down like you have it. right now your strap is doing a ton for side to side and nothing for front to back. put some up front to handle all 4 areas is another way. im paranoid about chaining down my rig. for me there are 8 12k aircraft binders on my rig. two at each corner. granted i am a full size so if i had a small rig then i would use 4 or 6. Grant
Id get another ratchet and loop it around the axle to the back of the trailer. That will solve the moving foward problem.
I use 4 straps, two straight back and two straight froward, all straped to the axels (as close to the wheels as I can) and I have no sway or bobbing. I tow a 72K5 w/35s.waytogo
I had heard that strapping at the frame can cause wheel bearings to "brinnel". Could be wrong on the spelling, but basically it means that the rollers or races can develop small flat spots from the continued stress of the bouncing on one small spot without the vehicles suspension absorbing some of it. I've always tied down at axles and never noticed a problem, even towing Shaggy's '78 on an undersized trailer, and that thing is on 42's with fairly soft suspension. Marc
i tow an 84 k5 and i just use 2 straps from the front axles to the restraints on the trailer and the same for the rear, 4 straps total and i have had no problems and my rig is alot taller than i want it to be ryan
