What rig would you buy for 10-15,000 and why

Discussion in 'General Tow Rig Discussion' started by twistedjack, Dec 13, 2005.

  1. twistedjack

    twistedjack Member

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    I am in desparate need of a tow rig and don't want to break the bank on buying one. I need enough room to seat 5 people, HAS TO BE a pick-up
    and capable of dragging around 7500-8000 pounds. I only take one to two long trips a year and the 30-40 mile trips to the trail head. So what would you buy any why?
     
  2. mbwagoner

    mbwagoner Well-Known Member

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    with that much weight get a 2500, it will push any 1500 to it's limits. I'd recommend a bigblock or a diesel. If it was me I'd get a Dodge with a Cummins, but that's just me wishing I did it right the first time. Be careful of preDuramax GM's, they weren't all that hot and at $10-15k you're not getting a Duramax.

    That's a start of what I'd look for, I'm sure other will have opinions too.

    How big are the 5 people, with kids you can use an extended easily. If it's larger adults you might want to look at crew cabs but I've taken 8 hour drives with 3 adults in my back seat 1 who is 6'4" and I only have an extended cab.
     
  3. twistedjack

    twistedjack Member

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    I should have stated that three are kids 11, 7, and 5.
     
  4. FordCummins1

    FordCummins1 Well-Known Member

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    If you plan on keeping the truck for any amount of time, Id shoot for a crew cab F250. Here's why:

    1. Excab will just be too small, especially with the kids growing in the next few years

    2. 3/4ton should be the perfect size for what you want to do.

    3. 97 F250, or 99+ Superduties are fairly readily available out there, and for a great price.

    4. If you are going gas in a Superduty, get an 01 or up V10. The V8 will make for some slow towing, it would do it, but Id get a V10. With a diesel the 7.3L is a great choice, and will run well beyond 250k.
     
  5. mbryson

    mbryson Well-Known Member

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    Pretty much my opinion. I wanted a manual trans, diesel rig that could tow the Jeep and anything else I'll throw at it for the next 10-15 years. I've got young kids (8,5,1) and an extended cab would work short term, but within 3-5 years, I'll be wondering why I settled for one.


    I just bought a '99 F*rd F250 PowerStroke Lariat for $15K. I would have prefered the '03-05 Dodge, but didn't want to wait a couple more years for them to fall into the price range I wanted to pay. F250-350 in my area don't really differentiate on price. It's mostly finding a used, but not used up vehicle. I almost bought an '01 V10 crew longbed for $14K (and I noticed it's still for sale if you want the phone number and want to drive to Salt Lake--same broker I got my truck from-he's had it a while and I bet he'd make you a deal. He's also got a NICE black F250 shortbed diesel-'00 or '01 but I don't know the price.).

    If you don't mind the IFS, a crew 454 K2500-3500 could work pretty well for you and I've seen them CHEAP ($8,000-10,000).

    I've driven to ID more than once to check out a few trucks. Check out www.ksl.com in their classifieds section if you want to look around here.
     
  6. RJF's Red Cummins

    RJF's Red Cummins TRC Staff Moderator

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    A Ford or a GM of the 95-00 vintage. Any newer than that and will probably be too expensive if it's 4wd.

    I wouldn't mess much with a gas engine truck, I like the way our Vortec 454 pulls in our C30 for urban towing. It actually will out accelerate my Ram from stop light to stop light with a moderate load. The difference though is the diesel rules the open road and is designed for pulling the hills and maintaining higher speeds, which sounds like what you will be using it for.

    Dodge is obviously out because of the poor cab options.
     
  7. Brisk

    Brisk Well-Known Member

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    I was in your same situation last spring. I had the same budget and wanted a cummins but the only ones in my price range had 200k+ on them and were a little beat up. I found a couple of 6.5 GMs that were in my price range in fairly good shape with relitivly low miles. I was hesitant due to their reputation but did some research and found that they are just a misunderstood animal. They have a few quirks just like any truck but once they are taken care of it makes for a pretty solid truck. I have replaced a few parts in the last 11k miles but they didnt break the bank. I have towed 10k lbs with mine and could cruise at 70-75mph on the flat land at 1/4 throttle. I pulled 8500lbs through the rockies and was over 65 on all but the longest/steepest grades. I paid just over $10k for my rig and havent regretted one minute of it. It tows really well and gets the same milage loaded as a 454 gets empty (sometimes better)

    Just something to think about!!waytogo
     
  8. Seventy4Blazer

    Seventy4Blazer Well-Known Member

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    i gave up on a gas motor when i had my 96 k3500 dually ext cab 454 4l8e. POS when towing and HORRIBLE mileage, GREAT to play with when empty but again... crappy mileage.

    due to the fact that a dodge is out because of the stated cab problem i would say a GM 6.5L turbo truck OR a ferd with a 7.3L.

    Personal opinion: a 3/4 ton truck is a half as$ truck. its kinda like settling for your HS sweet hearts sister vice her. might as well look for a one ton. you wont regret it. worry less about being over weight. i think trucks should come in half ton and one tons then mid sized trucks in 1.2 ton only. thats just me though.
    Grant
     
  9. mbryson

    mbryson Well-Known Member

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    Tough to disagree with that.
     
  10. RJF's Red Cummins

    RJF's Red Cummins TRC Staff Moderator

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    Woh, easy to disagree here....

    First off, there is almost no difference between a 3/4t and 1 ton anymore, like there used to be. About the only difference has been a 1 ton comes as a dually. Rear springs are slightly stiffer, front is identical, drivetrain is nearly identical in the Dodges and is identical with Ford and GM's. BUT, a 3/4t is cheaper to buy new or used, cheaper to insure, and cheaper to register.

    If a guy overloads a big 3/4 diesel, than having a 1 ton isn't going to do him much better, comparing a 3/4SRW vs. a 1 ton SRW.

    The fact that the 3/4t is a good option shows just by driving around town. Count how many 3/4t's you pass and how many 1 tons you pass. Besides, half the 3/4's don't even get used for anything....better than a bunch of even slightly heavier trucks doing nothing but carting around people.
     
  11. mbryson

    mbryson Well-Known Member

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    I'm already wishing my door tag said I could tow more as we're trying to save some costs going to a few events by towing two rigs to various places. I've not heard of big issues in Utah, but in some surrounding states they apparently weigh by the door tag and take it pretty seriously?

    You know and I know there is very little difference (probably one spring in the rear pack) and the officer's probably know that too. They're just enforcing the laws and creating revenue for the municipalities.
     
  12. joez

    joez Well-Known Member

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    Says the guy who buys a 1 ton shortbed.......................









    :stir:
     
  13. Brisk

    Brisk Well-Known Member

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    rotfl rotfl rotfl
     
  14. Mr. Beer/Cummins

    Mr. Beer/Cummins Well-Known Member

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    my 3/4 ton will hang with any 1 ton. My buddy has a 2000 3500 dodge and it has the same rearend and springs as my 2500 has.
     
  15. mbwagoner

    mbwagoner Well-Known Member

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    3/4 vs 1 ton

    When I bought my truck there was no 1 ton srw, but you could add the camper package and other stuff to make it one. As my truck sits the only difference between the my truck and a same year 3500 is the sticker on the door and the number of tires. Same brakes, same springs, same axle, same frame. The fun part is I can (and have) load my truck to the GVWR of the 3500 and not go over my axle or tire ratings. Luckily DOT in california only looks at tire ratings. The only time they care about GVWR is for fees and licenses.
     
  16. mbryson

    mbryson Well-Known Member

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    Good to know. Do you have a source I could print out and put in my glovebox in case I get pulled over? (I just like being 'safe' like that.)


    I also need to know Nevada, Oregon and Idaho (like they will care--they're usually WAY more lax than Utah, but you never know)
     
  17. mbwagoner

    mbwagoner Well-Known Member

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    barely got that out of a comercial officer, never found it in writing. it's really weird numbers games.
     
  18. RJF's Red Cummins

    RJF's Red Cummins TRC Staff Moderator

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    As far as the Dodges are concerned (seems to be the majority posting) so the manual equipped 3/4's are exactly the same as a 3500 as far as rear springs and brakes? Doesn't all 3/4t's and 1 tons have the same brakes or am I mistaken? Meaning, do the 3/4t manuals and 1 tons have a larger brake setup than the auto 3/4's with a rear D70 instead of the 80? I was under the assumption that all three variations had the same brakes.
     
  19. budkole

    budkole Well-Known Member

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    As far as the Fords go:

    2" rear spacer block in 250 vs 4" in the 350

    GVWR for F350 SRW is 9900 in most states and the F250 8800 in most states.

    From 99 to mid 2001 the srw trucks came with a Dana 50, Ford started using the Dana 60's on all F250/350's from mid 01 to present ,the front axle is identical on both trucks, including springs.

    waytogo
     
  20. mbwagoner

    mbwagoner Well-Known Member

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    Over the years things were different in the dodges. I know now since they have a 3500SRW there is a difference, but in 99 there wasn't in my truck. I don't know where your '01.5 fits into this.
     

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