Dilema/Cost; what do I do??

Discussion in 'General Tow Rig Discussion' started by Hardcorehunter, Sep 5, 2007.

  1. Hardcorehunter

    Hardcorehunter Member

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    Guys, I need some advice. I have this 1997 Z71 LT that I have owned for 8 years and I am tired of its' look. It has 200,000 miles on it, runs good, the leather interior is nice, and it has no rust. It is valued around $5,000. I want it lifted 6" or more and I don't know if I should spend the $ on it and new wheels and tires, or sell it and find one already done up with the look I like? I have recently moved to CO, can't wrench in my driveway here, so the lift installation will have to be hired out. What will it cost to lift this truck 6" or more. I have a 4" lift on my 1977 Blazer and myself and a buddy installed it at a cost of $700. I know these newer trucks require a totally different lift due to the independent suspension. Thanks guys, I appreciate your advice.waytogo

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  2. Brisk

    Brisk Well-Known Member

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    Id keep it. It runs good and you know that its been taken care of. If you buy another truck then you never know how the previous owner cared for it. As far as a 6" lift I would say you are probably looking at $2k+ installed and that doesnt include driveshaft work, gears, or rims and tires.
     
  3. RJF's Red Cummins

    RJF's Red Cummins TRC Staff Moderator

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    You will spend close to 5K$ on the truck for the lift and wheel/tires. You can figure 1K-1.5K for the lift, $500-750 for the install, and you could rack up $2500 or more for nice M/T's on quality aluminum rims.

    Tires/wheels are the big variable, you could go with steel wheels or economy alums like Eagle and save a bunch.
     
  4. Hardcorehunter

    Hardcorehunter Member

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    Thanks for the info guys. I am considering trading this for a 1972 1/2 ton stepside shortbox that is in very good condition. It seems like a much simpler and cheaper way to go as far as putting a lift on. Is there anything in particular that I should look for as far as wear on this year of truck suspension wise or anything else you can think of? Thanks!!
     
  5. RJF's Red Cummins

    RJF's Red Cummins TRC Staff Moderator

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    I don't think I'd trade that truck up for a '72.... you already have your K5, I personally would want to keep one "modern" vehicle that is comfortable.

    Yes, you would likely need to replace all of the front end bushings as they are likely already worn out, or too worn to put back in when they are already out.
     
  6. Hardcorehunter

    Hardcorehunter Member

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    Thanks for your advice; appreciated.
     
  7. Rob Knoell

    Rob Knoell Well-Known Member

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    If you are wanting a solid axle under the front of your rig then check out Off road Unlimited. They make a kit so that it is possible to install a solid axle under your rig with leaf springs.
    LT.
     
  8. Hardcorehunter

    Hardcorehunter Member

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    Thanks I will check it out. This 1997 chevy is depreciating in value everyday while a 1972 is going up in value everyday. The 1972 has no computer, no catalytic converter, and parts are cheap. I am about "moderned out" with my wifes' 2003 Caddy Deville . It just had an EGR valve go on it while I was out of state on business. $700 repair bill.:doah: The catalytic converter went on it two months ago and that was $350. My 1997 hasn't had any issues and with 200,000 its; time is coming. My 1977 Blazer doesn't have a part on it that costs $700 and all parts can be replaced on it cheaply, it runs great, and no plugging it into a computer and paying a $100 Diagnostic fee for a sevice engine soon light. Decisions, decisions.:doah: I haven't had a vehicle payment in 5 years and I don't want any in the future either so new is out. I would rather keep two older vehicles like I have now, so if one breaks down I can drive the other, then one with a $500-600 a month payment and expensive full coverage insurance. I am 45 and have had so many new vehicles that I am burnt out on payments and depreciating values that go with them.
     
  9. RJF's Red Cummins

    RJF's Red Cummins TRC Staff Moderator

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    Well, personall preference. I mainly drive two vehicles every day, average 15+K on both of them annually. My '01 Ram and my '81 K30. My K30 basically isn't much more complicated than a '72. Yes, the truck is fairly simple and strait forward to work on, but I don't think I would want to drive it 30K a year. My Ram is a much tighter smoother machine.
     
  10. Hardcorehunter

    Hardcorehunter Member

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    I know what you mean. I used to put 30-35 thousand miles a year on my route truck with my business back in a IA and you need modern comfort when doing a lot of driving. Now I only work the business once every 3 months for 3 weeks and I fly to IA and my inlaws give me a truck to drive. I reside in Steamboat Springs now and my driving is basically zilch except to fish and hunt and I drive my blazer for that. I live in paradise now and no need to travel anywhere else LOL. Here is the 1972 I am thinking of trading for. What makes me seriously consider trading for this, is that this truck will always be worth $6,000 or more 5 years or more down the road, and the Z71 will only be worth $2,000 if I am lucky 5 years from now. Whatever I choose is going to be tricked out with a healthy looking lift kit and nice wheels and tires and only used to cruise around town in.
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  11. duckmanquacker

    duckmanquacker Well-Known Member

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    Nice stepside but the $6k isnt what I'd spend on it. (just my opinion) but if its what YOU exactly want then $6k might be a steel.
     
  12. Hardcorehunter

    Hardcorehunter Member

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    Seems to be the going price on a nice 69-72 body style in this shape. I see many at twice this price too. Junk ones bring $2500.
    Here is a sweet 70. $12,900
    http://www.oldchevytruck.com/trucks5/zn.htm

    Here is a a 72 $12,000

    http://www.oldchevytruck.com/trucks/zg.htm

    Here is a 72 $7500
    http://denver.craigslist.org/car/409472511.html

    Here is a 72 $5500
    http://denver.craigslist.org/car/385597239.html

    Here is a 72 $19,5000!!!

    http://denver.craigslist.org/car/381096269.html

    Not to be argumentative and forgive me if I come across that way, but as you can see, the 69-72's are worth money and only going to keep appreciating instead of depreciating like my truck. My truck new was $29,904.05(I still have my original window sticker.) Now 10 years later it lists for $6,000-$7000 private party sale.(I did a Kelly blue book on it today) Pretty sad and especially discouraging as to what it will be worth in another 5-10 years. My brother collects muscle cars and I have read that old muscle cars from the 60's and 70's are one of the best items return wise to safely put your money in. I am just into 4X4 trucks and not cars. A 1972 chevy pickup taken care of will be worth more in 10 years than my 1997 Chevy pickup taken care of. I can't lose $$ on a 1972 Chevy pickup that I take care of.
     
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2007
  13. duckmanquacker

    duckmanquacker Well-Known Member

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    I'm with you on the older trucks but I can't afford the prices they are at:doah:
     
  14. rat_power_78

    rat_power_78 Well-Known Member

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    Thats exactly why the prices are getting so high. Too many people "investing" in them rather than buying them because they like them, wanted one as a kid, etc. Just my two cents, but it seems to be way too common of an occurence. If you like it and its what you want and it fits your needs, go for it. Personally, I wouldnt go older as my only drivers. My current DD is a 76 K20 350/4spd on account of I sold my 99 and havent found a suitable replacement yet. I would never part with this truck as its too fun, but only until its my only transportation. I cant really take it out of town between the 4.56 gears and the rippin 350 under the hood gas mileage is a joke at best. Not to mention it seems like some thing or another seems to break every time I need it. Obviously its up to you, but make sure you think long and hard about this from every angle.
     
  15. Hardcorehunter

    Hardcorehunter Member

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    What really bums me out with wanting to keep this truck is the issues with putting lifts on an IFS. Seems the more I read, guys are doing a SAS(solid axle swap) which is what really needs to be done if you want to have a sturdy, reliable lifted late model truck like my 1997 with big wheels and tires.

    Edit, BTW I have always liked the the 1969-1972 Chevy pickup bodystyle.
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2007
  16. RJF's Red Cummins

    RJF's Red Cummins TRC Staff Moderator

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    I disagree. You should be fine with IFS and a set of 33-35" tires in a normal width and tread. It's the super wide tires and wobbly bias tires that really eat up front end parts on both IFS and beam axles.
     
  17. Hardcorehunter

    Hardcorehunter Member

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    I called a shop in CO that is a chain store that sells and installs lift kits. The guy told me that with 200,000 miles on my truck that I should replace the front end parts on my truck at a cost of $1500 before I even lift the truck, because the parts are probably due to be replaced; especially if I am going with a lift. He then said it would be approx $2,500 to $3,000 to lift the truck for the kit and labor. He said that I should replace the front driveshaft too with one that allows me to drive down the road in 4 wheel drive at high speeds like I can and do now, and this was put into the cost. He recommended pro comp lifts as the best for chevy IFS. He told me that every 50,000 to 60,000 miles my front end will probably need serviced after driving with the lift kit and 35" tires.
    I have decided to not lift this truck, I would have $5,000 into it and not even have wheels and tires bought yet. He recommended a pre 1988 solid axle chevy pickup and lift it to the sky if I want. He said IFS's are expensive and will never be as durable as a solid axle. He said that he has had some solid axle swaps prices go as high as $10,000 to $15,000. I have always really like the 1969-1972 chevy body style and am looking for one of these in a 3/4 ton. I am also entertaining a late 70's early 80's one ton 4x4 if I can find a rust free one too. I am sticking with a solid axle front end as my truck to lift and restore. Thanks again for all of the advice.
     
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2007
  18. yellowk20

    yellowk20 Well-Known Member

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    I'd trade for the 72 in heartbeat if you treat that 72 as good as you've treated your Z-71 it will at least MAINTAIN its value plus the 72 is just cooler all the way around
     

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