Anyone towing with 5.3/ 4L60e?

Discussion in 'GM Gas Engine Rigs' started by bowtiepower00, Jan 26, 2007.

  1. bowtiepower00

    bowtiepower00 Active Member

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    I've got an 07 Silverado, and until the day I can afford a New D/A or used Cummins- which is probably going to be awhile, it's going to have to be my Tow Rig. Keep in mind it's a Extended Cab Short Bed 2WD. I'm going to add a Tekonsha Prodigy and Firestone Airbags to the rear before I hook up to anything. I also plan on adding a Diablosport programmer and intake, too. Does anyone tow with a similar rig? How about on grades?

    What am I going to tow? Mainly, a 68 Nova on a 16' trailer, probably around 4500 pounds lightly loaded and 6K when I've got lots of tools, etc. with me. I may also tow an enclosed cargo trailer (probably around 14-16x7) full of Motorcycles and tools, with a trailer weight similar to the first, perhaps a bit lighter.

    I'm not looking for any comments on the Transmission's life expectancy. It has a decent cooler on it, and it will get a better one before I tow. I leave it out of OD unless I'm going to stay in it, and if/ when it goes out I will have a suitable replacement built and upgrade the TC.

    I am not expecting this thing to pull like a HD, but it will probably be my towrig for the next few years, so I want to make sure it will get the job done. If it needs it, I will regear to 4.10. The factory tow rating is 7K, which would just cover my K20 on a suitable trailer. I wouldn't be too worried if it was flat out here, but just about any direction that I'll be travelling includes 6% grades.
     
  2. rat_power_78

    rat_power_78 Well-Known Member

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    I cant say much about the autos, but I have a '99 half ton (RCSB) with the 4.8L and 5 speed. Ive pulled quite a bit with it, including trucks, cars, even a decent sized skid loader. The most ive had to haul was either the skid loader or my "mildly modified" :pimp: derby car and a box loaded with tools and parts. I would not worry at all about your truck being able to handle what your pulling, but I would definetly put in a brake controller. Also, if your truck has tow/haul, use it!!! Ive driven trucks with it, and the difference is huge!!! Finally, and this is just my opinion, but I would not tow in overdrive unless you are certain the tranny wont start flipping between gears, but most likely you already knew that.waytogo
     
  3. Brisk

    Brisk Well-Known Member

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    My wifes Tahoe has this setup. I havent towed a long distance with it but I have towed heavy. We have a 20x8 Enclosed trailer that weighs about 6400lbs loaded. Most of the time I only tow it accross town (5-10miles). I would definetly use a W/D hitch if I was going very far. I have plenty of power and with the prodigy I can stop pretty well. the trailer pushes the truck around on the Freeway a little but again with a W/D hitch and sway control it would be great. you have a longer wheelbase than me so that will make it more stable. I usually leave it in 3rd unless I can run in OD with only 1/4 throttle. And always use Tow/Haul.waytogo
     
  4. jbawilliams

    jbawilliams Active Member

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    The weight distributing hitch is an excellent idea - you will be surprised at how much better it rides, and how much more stable it feels. Do not underestimate the weight of your trailer. We have a 6x6x16 enclosed, steel frame, but aluminum siding, and fiberglass roof. It weighs 2800# empty. We have a 16'+3' flatbed trailer, and it goes about 3500# with nothing on it. That trailer with my 96 F250 SC PSD on it was 9700#.
     
  5. bowtiepower00

    bowtiepower00 Active Member

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    Thanks for the replies. Even unloaded, my truck never sees OD unless I'm going to be staying in it for long periods of time (long trips above 70 mph, etc.) My truck has the 3.23's so it runs around 3K RPM in D at 80mph. If I end up towing regularly with this truck, and I decide a regear is in order, it will get 4.10's, but I don't plan on going that route unless it is a necessity. My truck will not see OD towing, so I think the 3.23's may actually work in my favor at speed in D. I am considering a WD hitch too. My flatbed is pretty light, as is my Nova- which is going to be under construction for awhile. If I get to the point that I'm towing frequently and know I'm going to carry more weight than my truck can comfortably, I will have to find a 12V Cummins rig to tow with. For now, I just need something to haul stuff and tow on occasion and I want to make sure my truck is prepared. Once the Nova is fully finished (a couple of years at this point) I'd like to get an enclosed trailer to tow it with, but I don't really want to hook that kind of weight to a 1/2 ton truck.

    Anyone out there have a programmer or other mods? I'd like to know what kind of a difference I can expect without the Torque management, it really seems to limit the fun down low. How about a Volant intake? That and a Diablosport programmer are the mods I'm looking at for the engine.

    How about mileage? My first tank after delivery (with 7 miles on it) was around 16. Now that it's got about 2500 on it I'm driving it harder (1/2-3/4 throttle all the time) I get 15 MPG, all Phoenix metro driving in D, not OD.
     
  6. rocknbronco

    rocknbronco Well-Known Member

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    From the sounds of it your truck will be more than up to the task of towing while you might get passed by bigger more built trucks just remmember this your not paying there fuel bill.I would invest in a cat back exhaust,cia,programer and brake controller with a wd hitch while I am also looking at the firestone bags I would pay extra for the incab controller.Good luck on your build up and just remmember not everyone needs a oil burner for some of us who plan on lighter loads a gasser will be just fine as far as the tranny it should hold up well and I wouldnt worry about the gears unless you climb alot of hills.
     
  7. Brisk

    Brisk Well-Known Member

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    Run that thing in OD!! You should get 20+mpg with those 3.23s. They are the worst ratio available for towing but for unloaded MPGs they are the best. These engines like to sing at 3k+rpms but it is just not nessesary when you are unloaded
     
  8. bowtiepower00

    bowtiepower00 Active Member

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    Running in OD is the single biggest cause of 4L60e failure. If I'm in a situation where I am going to stay in OD- think sustained flat Interstate travel- I definately run in OD. In metro driving (typically 60-80 MPH for me) where I want the power to pass, etc., I stay in D. If I had deeper gears I would run in OD more. I also stay out of OD on grades, etc., unless I'm really running fast (85+ MPH). In OD, 80 MPH is under 2K RPM, too low to keep the engine in it's sweet spot, IMO. As soon as I get into a situation where I feel the TC locking and unlocking I get out of OD. That being said, when this thing gets 5K on it I plan on adding a Diablosport programmer and possibly a Volant intake. If that gives me enough power to run in OD more often I will. For unloaded driving you are correct, I really like these 3.23's. This 5.3 makes the earlier engines (TBI and 5.7 vortec) feel like complete dogs- not to mention the 5.4 and Hemi, which are both junk, IMO.
     
  9. Seminoles

    Seminoles Member

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    What do you mean not in OD? Do you mean with the button on the gear selector pushed in or with it in 3 and not D? Mine has the button but it says tow haul mode. I thought these were 4 speed and OD was the torque converter clutch lock up that the button use to bypass. Is D over drive or fourth gear? I know lots of questions but I'm new to towing and learning... :doah:
     
  10. Brisk

    Brisk Well-Known Member

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    D is Overdrive or 4th (same thing). It is a complete seperate gear from 3rd. The TC will lock in 3rd and and in 4th. As you drive you will notice that your rpms will be at say 2000 (for arguments sake) with the tc locked in D. You may notice on slight hills the rpms raise slightly, say to 2300. this is D with the tc unlocked. if you pull the shifter down to 3rd than the rpms will usually go way up to say 3000 (3rd unlocked) and then quickly drop to like 2700 (3rd locked).

    The tow/haul button on the shifter just changes the trans programing for easier trans wear while towing.

    hope this helps and doesnt just confuse you.
     
  11. Seminoles

    Seminoles Member

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    Thanks for the info just was not sure this is my first new Chevy in a long time the Buick we had only had D321 and no button so used 3 towing one of Uhaul's big trailers from Texas. (kids can't make up there mind where they want to live) The Dodge Ram I had the button kept the converter from locking up which is the week point and D was a gear sort of. I did try the tow haul with nothing and it ran 2300 and off 2000 like you said does it keep the converter clutchs (the weak link) from locking up too? If I have this right I can tow 7000 to 9000lbs in D with tow haul on flat highway's and 3 in high hill and mountain areas which I plan on staying out of until I can aford a real truck like the big boys. I did tow it a couple of weeks ago it stayed at 2400 even up the bigist hill I will go up seams to be a good ol truck never broke a sweat still need to get the WD set up right still have a sway around 65 found out the guy has 600lbs spring bars and need 800-1000lbs bars that should help a lot. Once thanks for the info....
     

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