I have a 2005 Dodge 3500 CTD with a couple holes drilled in the bottom of the airbox and an AFE drop in element, now I want to go for the cold air intake. My 2000 I had an AFE stage II and it was fine but want some openions on all thats available. I have 4" turbo back exhaust, edge juice w/attitude and a piece of straight pipe from the original air box to the turbo. I'm kinda leaning to the Valiant but would like to hear some openions.
Check out www.iceboxmanufacturing.com for the best Dodge/Cummins CAI systems. I run one and love it. Made in USA, one at a time by hand in Colorado. -Chuck
i won the one off of here and love it so far. i would recomend it. it is a VERY tight fit and looks awesome. i still need to get pictures of it though...
Thanks for the replies. I just purchased one forn Mac Performance. Looks about he same power/mileage gains or better than most and a lot less money. $230.00 for the box, element, and intake tube/fittings. I'm curious to see if there is much improvement from the stock box with extra holes and the straight intake pipe to this. http://macperformance.com/store/product1.cfm?SID=3&Product_ID=726
Whatever intake you choose, my main advice would be to avoid oiled air filters. Oiled air filters rely on the filter oil held in suspension on a filter media matrix to capture airborne dirt. The oil is what is capturing the dirt, not the filter media. The K&N and other oiled air filters have a good theory, but that theory is shot when dealing with the huge air CFM demand of these engines. That is why you're seeing a industry shift toward dry air filters. An oiled air filter works fine on a naturally aspirated engine (non-turbo or forced induction). The oil captures the dirt, and the CFM demand isn't high enough to adversely affect the oil being held in the filter media. But when you start asking a lot of an air filter, and turbo diesels do just that, you begin to see the weakness in the oiled filter theory. In high CFM demand applications, the oil is literally sucked through the filter matrix, sucked out of suspension and up the intake tube along with any captured dirt. The filter is now effectively under-oiled. Since oil is what makes an oiled filter, well, filter, we now have a filtration problem. The under oiled media now allows quite a bit of dust to get past it and up your intake tube. Dirty intake tubes, dirty turbo fins, and turbo damage are not too far down the road. All it takes is one run to 20, 30, or 40+ psi boost and bye bye oil. Dry air filters don't rely on oil. The filter media itself is what filters the air. Having no oil to be sucked free under high CFM demand, dry filters are much better at doing their job - filtering air and protecting your $8,000 engine. Since I am obviously a sponsor here, I'll tell ya that I've personally set lots of guys up with better air filters (nanofiber filters in my case) who have K&N and other intake tubes. Like I said, your intake tube is fine, keep it. But do some reading on what that filter could do to your engine. Here are some photos of what oiled air filters have been known to do on turbo diesel engines. I've seen this with K&N filters and AFE filters personally - the dirt up the intake tube and turbo damage. -Chuck
06TRX, that looks good, but it looks like it would pull a lot of hot air from under the hood. I might be wrong so don't beat on me.
I've been using K&N for yrs.Never had any problems.The airplane in my avatar,was mine.It has a K&N filter.The engine uses 36,000cfm.Normal working altitude was about 5 ft off the deck and making 140 mph.So,I can say I trusted my life to them.Oh,BTW,the engine costs $350,000.So I think they are pretty good filters. Just my opinion.
I was going to buy an intake, but decided too much money for minimal gain. I added an Amsoil drop in, and cut a 4" hole in the bottom with a 4" pvc elbow. My filter minder does not get pulled down like it did stock. I also agree with the don't go oiled route. While I don't think they are totally horrible, maint. is a pain and getting the right amount of oil takes time. You need to wait until the oil soaks into the filter.
We just dropped that AEM WorkHorse into my brothers 03 Cummins and I was very impressed. First it uses their new Dry Flow oil-free synthetic filter that doesn't use filter oil, so no worries there. The filter is huge and the ductwork is made from 4" polished aluminum tubing. Very high quality pieces. As far as hot underhood air, the top of the metal air box has a rubber seal that seals against the underside of the hood to act like an enclosed airbox. As soon as I get my new turbo, one of these kits will be going on my truck.
I would recommend getting an S&B Intake; I will be purchasing one for my Dodge. They flow around 40% better than stock and are more than 99% efficient in capturing dirt (all of the performance reports are available on their website). With S&B, you get good performance and filtration that is just as good as a stock paper element. Also, they are relatively inexpensive; the whole kit for my 2001 Dodge is $250 shipped to my door. www.sbfilters.com
although i told ben or 4054x4 S&B makes a good intake but the oiled filters are not good for forced induction vehicles. the turbo sucks the oil in the filter into the cold side of the turbo and grime builds up on the compressor wheel and intercooler tubes. dry filters are the best way to go.
I have the AFE Stage 7 Filter with the stage II box and tube. I have 50K miles on the truck and the inside of the tube is still nice and clean.
Injen Check out the new Injen/AMSOIL Nanofiber intakes. 2003 to 2007 Dodge Cummins Intake 2005 to 2007 Chevy Duramax Intake 2003 to 2007 Powerstroke Intake Info here: AMSOIL Injen Intakes Ask me for discount pricing.
