Father in law just give me a 97 2500 club cab for FREE Just one slight problem. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . It's just blowing oil out the blow by pipe, smoking like a freight train, and a rod knock from hell. The bottom of the truck is completly drenched in oil. The truck has 205,000 miles and has been hooked to a #7500 trailer all it's life. I don't think I will be rebuilding it, if it was 4wd I would. It has a dana 80 and a nv4500. I may just keep the dana 80 and the sliding back glass and part the rest out. Or I may find a wreck truck and swap the body out. Any body know the cost for a rebuild on a 12v? I figured $3500 to $4000, but I may be way off :dunno:
Are you talking about a bone stock rebuild? Or modding it out at the same time? Gasket kits (upper and lower) along with pistons can be had for around 900 bucks if we are talking all stock. Boring and honing should only be around 150 bucks at most. Im not sure on the cost of a valve job, but it shouldnt be too much for that motor. Injectors should be available for less than 300. 205k isnt too bad, but with that rod knock it is hard to say whats been beat up inside. Either way, you made out all right, I mean the NV and Dana 80 oughta bring some decent bucks in. waytogo
I wouldn't think all that much. I'd order a new recon head from Cummins, that is arpund $1500 IIRC. I'd also order recon. rods from Cummins too. New sleeves (not sure if these small cummins are sleeved or not) and go. The crank can be reused. I don't see why new injectors would be needed, if they are fine run them in the new motor. A simple inframe like this probably wouldn't cost all that much. I guess it depends on what kind of shape the truck is in that would justify if it's worth an inframe or scrap yard.
Problem is that you just can't do an inframe with a B series because they don't have liners :doah: . Really poor design . The engine has to be removed and completely dis-assembled for machine work.
Well if you have a machine shop that has a deck mounted boring bar you can do an inframe machine job unless you need an align bore/hone. We did a few cars this way, deck mounted boring bar and hone and it worked rather well. These cars were just too dificult to get the block out of, really pore design. It's not great because you can't align the bar to the mains, only to the deck (and hope it's flat and true to the bore).
Picky, picky, picky rotfl . I did say "B" series . Jason, I'm sure theres alot things that a guy can do with a CNC, Mill, Lathe, ect...........................Must be nice .
Hmm, so can the crank just be reused like in larger Litre engines? With the M11-N14 engines we don't have to turn the cranks or anything, just reinstall with new bearings and recon. rods.
Even in regular automotive engine rebuilds you don't always turn the crank. Only if there is heavy pitting or grooving or if it's out of round. I usually mic each journal 3 ways and if it's straight and smooth it goes back in. Usually I'll polish it up on a lathe though with a handheld pollisher.
I've done inframes on N14's at 500,000 miles and never touched the crank except your average inspection by eye and then another rebuild at 750,000miles. By that time the truck is DONE! waytogo. Speakin' of miles, My Grandpa that I've learned from worked on a guys truck that he bouhgt new in 1958 and drove the same truck untill 1993 and clocked 3.5 million miles with that same truck. Now mind you he rebuilt the drive train a couple of times.
