Hey im finally narrowing down this whole mess i have decided to go with a suncoast torque converter, valve bodym and flexplate. i have just two or three simple questions now: 1. I unprogrammed my truck and the tranny barely ever hunts for gears or slips (obviously) so if i go to get the tranny warrantied and they say that there is nothing wrong with it or there isnt enough wrong with it to replace it will putting the new parts on the tranny that was already screwing up a crappy idea? 2. Will a new Torque Converter, Valve Body, and Flexplate handle these upgrades: Triple Dog Programmer on Middle Setting, 4" Straight exhaust (no cat, no muffler), CFM+ intake manifold, ICEBOX cold air intake, and a water/meth kit? 3. Am i going to need a new input shaft with these new parts? Im not doing anything further to my truck than the parts listed in question 2 Thats pretty much it.....im going to get my tranny looked at at the end of April so im praying they will replace it under warranty, then all this goes on and i get to roll around without that crappy feeling in my gut that my truck is about to explode! waytogo
Ok, good call on the Suncoast stuff. If you want a more aggressive shift get the HTS VB. Other than that, looks good. YES! You will need the input. the Bully Dog can make a pretty solid amount of power and it is enough to break the factory input shaft. Much cheaper to put it in now. As for the hunting, that is a VB related issue, which should not cause any damage to the clutch plates. Its actually called a shuttle. The VB can be adjusted a little to minimize it, but its a combo of the TV motor not responding fast enough and the VB having a piss poor adjustment. Now, if it has slipped, then the trans needs to come apart.
You say it barely ever hunts for gears or slips without your tuner, but how bad does it do either (or both) with the tuner? If there's excessive slippage, I'd consider the valve body more of a band-aid than a cure. If it is just hunting, that shouldn't cause damage and a valve body could very well take care of it depending on what gears it's hunting in. On Edit: I just read another of your posts, where you say it hunts for second. Is this between second and first or second and third? 1-2 should more than likely be fixed with a new valve body. As far as the damage done from slipping, it depends on how severe it was. The debris you find in the pan can tell you a lot, but it's a bit of a catch -22; a lot of debris is obvious that there's excessive damage, but a small amount of debris doesn't necessarily mean you're out of the woods, either
it is hunting from 1st to 2nd.......ill check the pan for shavings.......see im iffy on if it slipped or if it was just hunting real hard all i know is when it mesed up i took the foot off the stupid pedal and it stopped haha
Sounds to me like the standard shuttle shift common with 05 and newer Dodges. The newer transmissions are run by a TV motor instead of a TV cable and its not that great at low throttle levels. Alot of it can be adjusted out to help minimize it.
On the 05 and newwer trucks you have an electric motor to run the TV (throttle Valve) on the VB. This used to be done with a cable. So, due to a slower reaction time, slower movement, and slightly off calibrations, the transmission can do some goofy stuff as its TV can be off just a bit. When you drop the pan, you can see the Adjustment screw for the TV stop, which will limit how far out the TV can go at idle. You will need 2 people and a code reader to do this. Drop the pan, and cut off a 3/16" allen key. You will see how much once the pan is down. Now, you can typically adjust the stop in about 1 turn, and that is what the code reader is for. If you adjust it too far it will set a check engine light and code for range of motion. So, make adjustment, have partner in truck turn key on (DON"T start) and slowly push the pedal to the floor and back up to idle. No code, shut it off and adjust again. You want to get just to the point it sets a code, clear the code, and adjust it out enough so the code doesn't reset. This I have found helps knock down the shuttle shift. While you are in there you can also crank up the line pressure some as well. I think its 1 turn in = 3PSI of line pressure. I'll double check that.
