Hi everybody! I need tips how to get more power. I am new to this forum, so have me excused if I break any "regulations" I live up in Norway, Europe and happens to be the proud owner of a 2000 Dodge RAM 2500 4x4 5.9 CTD automatic long bed quad cab. It's a nice lady with all equipment. But I want more power. I use it every day to pull a 5500pound trailer and feel I have sufficient power...but...I want to have some more...Where do we begin? I want to reach the 500 hp limit. Should I start with air, exhaust, gauges, lift pump(FASS system), Edge or Banks? Injectors? And the transmission. New tourqe converter? I hope I can get some help to pick the right components for my truck. See you around!
1st you need gauges,cold air and a 4" ex will feel like more power it will help you spool up faster.i say try a smarty it would be nice to find someone local with on you can try everyone that i let try mine has bought one.
I wouldn't look for hardly anything from Banks. 1. Why do you want so much power? 500HP is a LOT for just towing. 300HP is plenty to pull nearly any hill above the speed limit with a 5,000lbs load. If you want it for fun, then nevermind. 2. You will need much more than a torque converter. I would suggest forking over the cash for an ATS or Suncoast tranmission, complete unit that comes on a pallet ready for installation. You will need a billet input shaft for sure. Triple disk converter and modified valve body should come with the complete trans. 3. FASS fuel system, 125HP injectors, Edge Comp or Juice module w/A1 or 2, a larger turbo like a Phat Shaft 66 or something similar, Smarty programmer, and at least head studs but you might need to o-ring the head depending on boost pressure. Obviously some sort of cold air intake like an AFE and 4" to 5" exhaust would be needed.
Thanks a lot for giving me advice. I don't need 500 hp for towing, just for showing off. I love working on my truck and I want to have this like a serious project. I will start with gauges and breathing systems. Any ideas? BD air and MBRP? But can I put in new injectors without any Edge Comp(example) or fuel system?
Yes, you can do injectors without a fueling box. I just wouldn't go crazy on the injector size without one. The fueling boxes also have the boost foolers so the motor will be allowed to run more boost then stock and they also add in timing which helps with the power. If you just use big injectors without the timing and extra boost you are just throwing tons of fuel at a motor that can't optimize the extra fuel. Harley
I would go with an AFE stage 2 system if was me. There are many choices with exhaust. The thing about this is that most of the manufacturer's kits are really pretty close to the same thing. I would go with MBRP myself, I think they really have their tone dialed in. I have their brand new 5" system and love the way it sounds, but you have to be willing to deal with some drone inside the cab to have a system this big. Like Hossbaby said, you need some sort of boost fooler with the injectors. The problem will be EGT's as the turbo won't be able to put enough air to match the fuel since the computer will hold it back at 22lbs max. Lots of fuel and not enough air is obviously a rich mixture, which will drive up your exhaust temperature, not cool down like a gas engine. If it gets too rich, or runs too rich too long it can do some major engine damage. The way to prevent any problems is to have guages, mainly pyro and boost. With your guages you can then regulate your foot to keep things in the safe zone. I can get you most of these parts, since you are in another country it may or may not be cheaper to buy something locally since it would likely cost a lot of money to ship from here in the states to you. Remember something though, you start gettting that much power and reliability could be compromised, depending on how you use and treat the truck. Here is a shot or two of my MBRP exhaust.
Thanks for replying! I really preciate it! I am starting to see how all these performance parts work together. I will start with the breatheing. AFE 2 and MBRP. It looks great on your truck. But on Dunks I found two different models. I think it was differnet metall, T 409 and T309. Do you know the difference? I am a bit worried about the VP 44 pump. Should I get a FASS system just to be safe than sorry? And what is a Stealth Plate? When it comes to injectors, does 275 mean that "these" injectors produce 275 hp or are capable of handeling 275 hp? What about the 300? You are talking about reliability. But if I get another 150 hp and considerable torque, should I be worrying that my truck could have a break down? What kind of fluids should I be using on my truck? (engine oil, trans, diff) Then business. Do you, RJF, sell these products? I have to get them myself from US since nobody is a delaer of these performance parts. Again thanks for advicing me! Have a nice one!
T309 is a higher grade of stainless steel. MBRP offers a 5 year warranty with 409 systems and a lifetime warranty with 309 systems. There is also a third type, aluminized steel. It is not a stainless type steel so it will eventually rust and corrode. Although, this could take 10-20 years depending on the climate you live in. Hot, dry areas with long summer seasons mostly benifet from aluminized, since it won't have much time to see a lot of moisture and will keep the system from rotting away for years and years. Aluminized is also cheaper. If you live in a cold climate and/or a very wet climate you should really consider stainless. Road salt is very hard on aluminized, stainless will last much longer in rough climates like this that reakes havic on exhaust. It depends on what pressure your current lift pump is putting out. No point in changing parts that are still just fine. You need a fuel pressure guage, along with boost, EGT, and transmission temperature. There are many options here that we could later go over. The FASS system is really nice though, and should be on the list with that much horsepower in mind, I plan on going to a FASS when my LP dies. 275HP sticks are RV version sticks. They are what comes factory in 5.9 engines found in RV's. 300HP sticks are usually 40HP too, the same as 275's. I would not even bother with extremely small 40HP injectors, if you want 500HP you need to be looking at least 100HP injectors, that would be like 335HP injectors, but most of the time they go by how many HP they add over stock. Well, with another 150HP over stock, which would only be 365HP, not 500HP. that shouldn't be all that hard to accomplish without sacraficing much, if any reliability. There is a big difference between 365Hp and 500HP. It takes internal modifications to make that kind of power, where 365 and you don't have to mess with head gaskets. I'd like to know more about your automotive experience and knowledge. No offence, but it sounds you are a little on the green side. You can't just say, "I want 500HP and still want the truck to behave like stock and still have top notch reliability." It just doesn't come hand and hand neccessarely. with injectors big enough to make 500HP you will make a lot of black smoke during take off, even with a box turned off. Twin turbos help this but they cost $3,500+ US. You will likely need at least head studs, I honestly don't know much about this mod, but you change out the factory head studs with stronger larger ones that help hold the head tight. This is no easy task for a beginner, it's serious! You are dealing with a $10K US engine, and if some of this stuff isn't installed correctly you could have problems with a leaking head gasket. I honestly would stay around the 350HP range, MAX. That is me though, you can stay away from engine mods, big huge injectors, big mechanic shop bills for those important engine mods, and you limit sacraficing reliability. Every time you open up an engine or do some sort of major modification you are opening up a can of worms. This leaves the potential for something to go wrong, like the saying goes, if it isn't broken, don't fix it. You could go with an Edge Juice or Comp with a set of 40-65HP injectors with a Super Bee turbo or Phat Shaft 62 and easily make that 365HP, yet not requiring major work. 365HP equals about 800-900ft lbs of torque, that will probably blow your mind in acceleration, really....it's fast. Synthetic synthetic synthetic! You will be working all of your components, a good synthetic will combat faster component wear due to heavy loads and high power levels. I reccommend Amsoil, they have the biggest selection by far of all the synthetic manufacturers. Yes, I sell basically everything that you could need.
If you want over five hundred horse I will write out a parts list for you to get about 550 hp and 1400 ftlbs of torque.
