Problem Starting

Discussion in 'GM Diesel 6.2' started by BurbLover, Apr 3, 2005.

  1. BurbLover

    BurbLover Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2005
    Posts:
    151
    Media:
    3
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    SW Missouri
    I replaced my 6.2 in my K5 about two weeks ago. Ran just fine & then I parked it. This past weekend, I had trouble getting it started and noticed the fuel pump was leaking pretty good. So, I replaced the pump, bled the lines, and it still doesn't want to start very good. Killed both batteries.

    I've got fuel all the way to the injectors and bled the injectors as well. Any idea's?

    BTW, didn't even start up with either. I know you shouldn't use it, but it should've started with it.
     
  2. jac6695

    jac6695 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2005
    Posts:
    140
    Media:
    24
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Christiansburg, VA
    Have you checked your glow plugs and controller? I have heard with 6.2's (and any older diesel) that has been sitting, compression can be too low due to lack of oil on the cylinder walls and cause hard starting. May be pull the glows and squirt some oil in to build a film on the walls? I would think that with working glow plugs, this wouldn't be a problem.

    BTW, I thought either is mostly hard on the glow plugs, not so much the engine itself?
     
  3. BurbLover

    BurbLover Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2005
    Posts:
    151
    Media:
    3
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    SW Missouri
    I put all new Delco 60G's in when we did the engine swap. Also checked the GP's and there is juice from the controller to the GP's.
     
  4. CoastalDav

    CoastalDav Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 1, 2005
    Posts:
    102
    Media:
    15
    Albums:
    1
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Melbourne, Florida
    Can the mechanical pump, and put a good electric pump on the right hand
    frame rail. There should be a flex joint there. The electric pump will fit right there. It should run about 80,000 miles with a filter between the tank and electric pump.

    The advantage to the electric pump is, you don't have to crank the engine to move fuel. To prime the systems just turn the key on and loosen up what ever you think you need to. After swaping injection pumps on my old 6.2 I took the fuel return line check valve out (front of the pump 9/16" wrench) and waited for the bubbles to quit. Once I had clear fuel coming out I put the check valve back in and hit the key. It fired on the second turn.

    Glow Plugs and Controller. Pain in the butt. There is a sensor in the water jacket that tells the controller wether to turn on the glow plugs or not. If the coolant is low and the sensor is not wet, the glow plugs will not come on. If I remember right its on the right side of the engine behind the head.
    There is a resistance measurement to check it. Don't remember what it was. If you have the old style glow system the controller has the sensor built into the
    controller and sits in coolant.

    The other thing you need to know is, if the fuel return line check valve becomes fouled with debris from the pump, the engine will not start. Pull it, hold it up to a bright light and see if you see black specs in there. If your driving along and the fuel pedal begins to get real soft and the engine just shuts down and after a couple minutes it refires and shuts down again, its the check valve. Carry one with the glass eye drilled out
    (1/4" drill) put that it there and you'll think you just added a turbo.

    When I was driving mine alot a long time ago, I've got not less than 12
    6.2 diesels running that were broke down on the side of the road. I just swapped the check valves. I took there's and gave them my spare.

    Bubbles in the overflow tank,=blown head gasket.

    Dave
     

Share This Page