I have a modified 2002 Ram, with 5.9 Diesel, and I am running a HX35/40W Wastegated Hybrid Turbo, 4 In. Magna Flow Exhaust, S/B Cold air Intake, new industrial diesel injector pump, FASS 150 GPM Fuel Pump, DDP 110 HP over Injectors, 150 HP Juice with attitude, Suncoast Torch Converter and Valve Body, and Pack Break off of Exhaust, have 354 gear ratio with dodge 4-speed automatic transmission. My question is with all of these modifications, I have plenty of power but when the throttle is put to the floor for passing etc., my EGT (Exhaust Gas Temperature) Monitor alarms telling me it is going over 1300 degrees. What can I do to prevent this?
1. Your Edge Juice is a 120HP box. 2. What size exhaust housing do you have? The hybrids are not the best turbos to begin with. The first thing I'd do is set your Attitude to alarm at 1350* instead of 1300. You've got big injectors, and if you are running the Juice on the upper levels, you are pushing a lot of fuel.
I belive my exhaust housing coming out of the back of the turbo is 3in going to pack break and 4in on back side of the pack break going to the exhaust. I am running a stock exhaust manifold. My attitude alarm is set at 1250. What if I change intake maifolds from stock to a CFM and or remove stock innercooler and replace it with a cool twist replacement innercooler or both? Also, would insulating the down tube going from turbo charge to the innercooler and insulating outlet tube going to intake manifold help?
Replacing compressor side components is a costly. Wrapping this tube or that tube will make little difference, and a CFM intake elbow or what not will also yield questionable gains.
don't waste your money on a new intake horn or IC. the stock stuff is more than fine. Bottom line is, you need a bigger turbo and you need to lose the 3" exhaust stuff all together. Myself I still run the stock intercooler and intake horn, creeping into 600 rwhp I have a hard time getting 1450* on a WOT run in 5th. Generally I wrap the speedo before I can tag 1500*.......my point is the stock stuff works just fine. you just need to put more air through it. and let it out of the engine faster.
Intercooler could help... http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/dodge/0803dp_1998_dodge_ram/index.html But yeah a bigger turbo help you out more then anything.
Heres the thing about that, any aftermarket IC is more than $1000 I'm pretty sure. If your dropping that kind of coin, for sure without a doubt, your best bang for buck is a bigger turbo.
Been hearing what you guys have been saying about the bigger turbo for several months now and have decided to go that route, however the guy who helps me turns a wrench on my truck keeps warning me about the slower spool and says I won't like it. I was probably going with the sps62...are guys using the "smarty box" to compensate for the loss of low end punch with the bigger turbo, or is he just wrong about the difference in spool? Is it really that bad? I still want my daily driver.
Turbo upgrade is what you need. The HX35/40 hybrid should have a 12cm housing on it. This is ok for a mild increase in power, but you need far more. Options I can think of - Super B Special, SPS62 or an HTT Superstock 62. I would recommend the BD unit. Now, this will hook directly up to your existing 4" exhaust, but all will need you to replace the downpipe. The BD unit comes with the Downpipe and the others it is an extra cost item that typically gets rolled into the price. BD is the best bang for the buck by far. As for spooling, yes there can be a difference. You do have to have a decent amount of fuel to spool one of these turbos listed. montanabob18 will not have an issue, and spool up should be very close to stock if not better on the bottom end under heavy throttle. Now, for those that are not nearly as fueled, the BD Super B single is about the best priced, best spooling option out there. Perfect for a Juice/att and even some 275rv injectors and a little more.
1. Ratings are subject to change...my juice gives me 180 HP difference between 0 and 5x5!! 110 HP between 0 and 3x3!! 2. I agree, turn up the alarm setting...your turbo will be fine running at 1300-1350. If it is still an issue after that, try smaller sticks...far more cost effective than a biger turbo. (I'll trade you sticks!! ) 3. Open the exhaust up as much as possible, had to do with the pac-brake, I know. But the sooner it's at 4" the better. The root of the problem is not that there isn't enough air getting in, it's not getting it out effeciently enough, when combined with large amounts of fuel this is what causes high EGT's. Just my $0.02
1350* is really pushing it for a safe egt. At that temperature, I would be more worried about your aluminum pistons getting warped than your turbo being damaged.
Going to a 14cm wastegated housing will also help. And if you modify the gate for more flow, your EGTs will drop. If I knew then what I know now...... First mod, CAM. One of the best towing mods available. Even in a bone stock truck, the results can be amazing. Put a custom spec'd unit in my dad's truck. (Only 2nd gen bone stock truck I knew of) and his towing experience got much better. Even with a HY35, he netted better economy and lower EGTs. We have just swapped in some 150HP sticks and an EZ for the timing. He will need a trans soon, but he is simply amazed that he can tow with that much fuel and has controllable EGTs. For most a cam is not considered a good option. But it does work. While that HX35 based turbo is only going to flow so much air, I would consider a cam a better bang for the buck than a turbo. And the last thing I would change is the innercooler. JMO Dave
