I have a 2002 3500 with 30,000 miles. I purchased it about 6 months ago with 24,000 miles. I've been upgrading since I got it and what I'm really on the fence about is wether or not to switch to synthetic and which brand. Can I have some opinions/experience please? Thanks in advance.
First off, HOLY COW, a 2002 with 30K! Good find. Going to synthetics is a GREAT idea. I use and distribute Amsoil synthetic products, I sell Amsoil because I believe in the benifets of synthetic. Some 15W-40 for your engine along with a Donoldson Endurance nanofiber filter. Now your good for 15 to 25K on an oil change, or one year. Less internal drag, doesn't break down as easily when subjected to high heat, and keeps an engine extremely clean. You didn't mention if you had a manual or auto trans, so I'll list both types of oil. Universal ATF, cooler running temps, better wear protection, can handle more heat, and a much longer drain interval. Your transfer case also calls for ATF. Same with the manual trans NV5600 syncromesh, better wear protection, cooler temps, longer life, and slightly smoother shifting. Your differentials will greatly benifet from synthetic, as they have no coolers to help keep the oil cool. The synthetic will help keep a larger cushion of oil between the ring and pinion, and provide less parasetic loss when compared to conventional. (read: less drag) The Severe Gear contains extra additives for extreme use and for a locking or limited slip diff. I would run 75W-140 in the rear if you are towing and 75W-90 up front. https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/fgr.aspx https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/svo.aspx https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/ame.aspx https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/atf.aspx https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mtf.aspx With synthetic from bumper to bumper you should see a fuel mileage increase on the highway. It helped me add about 1.5-2mpg to my truck on the highway.
Can't beat Amsoil. i run it bumper to bumper in my truck (est 675+hp). You may find a difference in opinions on the gear oil, though. I run Severe Gear 75W-90 in both axles. I have yet to see a situation where going to the thicker 140 was a benifit. The 75W-90 will give better fuel mileage due to its slightly thinner consistancy. On paper, the specs between the two aren't really that far apart, either. I don't think its worth teh extra cost. Other than that, you can't go wrong. RJF can get you all set up if you decide to make the switch. He'll set you up as a preferred customer so you can save some money on your fluids and make your dollor go as far as possible. Also, I HIGHLY recommend the BMK-15 Dual filter bypass system for your truck. Relocates your full flow oil filter (under turbo) to a remote location along with a second, bypass filter. easier servicing and MUCH better filtering all equal a cleaner motor and cleaner, less frustrated owner (if you do your own services). I usually mount them to te crossmember under the radiator. Mount them horizontal above the sway bar. Jason
Jason makes a good point, 140 isn't that much different, but I tow a lot, and more importantly am towing heavier and heavier all the time. Also, for some reason, my power output seems to keep going up the longer I own my truck....rotfl 140 for me, I want the best cushion between the ring and pinion I can get and the most resistance to thinning down when hot.
Go synthetic. I also am an Amsoil dealer/user. I am currently converting over to Amsoil front to rear. Currently both diffs and the motor are Amsoiled up. When I get a few more mileage checks from the company I will be doing the Tcase and NV4500 also. Extra protection can't hurt anything. My truck is going to see 40K miles per year with my current job so doing oil changes every 3,000-5,000 miles adds up very quickly. Now with the Amsoil I can go at least 15,000 on an oil change. Harley
2 questions... 1) If I switch over to AMSOIL in my 2001 Diesel Ram 2500's AUTOMATIC tranny, what is the proper way to change from dino to synthetic? I think I have to fully purge the tranny somehow, no? I'd appreciate anyone telling me the proper way to do it. 2) RJF, I am in Long Island NY... do you deal out this way? Thanks, -Frank
Easiest way - Drop the pan, obviously draining the fluid. Disconnect both cooler lines from the transmission body on the drivers side of the truck. Using an air (blow) nozzle with a rubber tip, blow air through the cooler and make sure you have something to catch all the atf. Reconnect the cooler lines once empty. This should remove about 80% of te fluid in a stock system. Most aftermarket converters have a drain plug so you can drain the converter. Either way, no worries. There will be a minimal amount of the old fluid left in the system. I would like to recommend that you go back together with a Mag Hytec double deep pan. 4 additional quarts of atf and a drain. Plus, pre tapped for temp sending unit. RJF should be able to set you up with the oil no problem. PM me if you are interseted in the Mag Hytec.
I actually recommend that you have a shop change the oil in the trans for you, as long as you know it's a good shop. If you are a DIY guy, then Jason summed that up for you. No problem with you being in NY, I can ship anywhere in the US.
