Hey all, First post here, but some might know me from The Lounge Anyhooo, I picked up a horse trailer last night and am hoping to tow it with my K10 (350/TH350, 4.10s). I think the trailer is something like 6K empty. I'll most likely only be hauling 1 horse (1000lbs) within a couple hundred mile radius. We towed it back with my friends 90 burb and it pulled great. I'm concerned that it will want to push my shortbed around some on the downhill. I want to drop a tire size (anyone interested in some 37 SSRs?) to get my gearing a little better, I have a tranny cooler and 3/4 ton axles. I plan to install a brake controller. I cannot afford to buy another truck to tow this trailer, so any help with leveraging what I already own would be most appreciated.
You're going to be pushing it, but with the 14bFF in the rear you should be fine. The 3/4 ton and 1/2 ton 70s Chevies have the same frame. You might be pushing the GCVWR though, so you might look into that. If you get pulled over and you're over the limit then it's a big ticket, I think. Make sure that your hitch is solidly attached to the frame and I'd suggest a weight distributiing setup too, so long as that's kosher for hauling animals? I don't see why it wouldn't be, but I wouldn't know. Inspect your frame oten to make sure it isn't bending. If the rear is lifted with a shackle flip you might want to consider going back to a tension shackle and a lifted spring pack with either an add-a-leaf or airbags. Definately get the brake controller before you tow it. Does the trailer have brakes on one or both axles? They are electric and not surge brakes, right? So, the list would be - weight distributing hitch, brake controller, good solid receiver to start. See how it goes, then possibly rethink your rear suspension setup if it sags bad.
As far as pulling, your rig with the shorter tires will be fine but slow, dont try to keep up with the diesels especially on hills. the truck will show you where it likes to run, my estimates are around 65-70 MPH max. You didnt mention if the trailer had any brakes, if it does get the controller for the truck to match, if it doesnt then get the controller and brake system for trailer to match before you put the horse in it. also make sure that your hitch can support the weight of the trailer, a bumper mounted hitch is a major NO NO. when you get the rig finally set up go and weigh the whole rig for your empty weight with full tanks, this will give you the ability to estimate your total weight for your trips. good luck and great to have you herewaytogo Ialso agree with shaggy he beat my post by a few seconds.
Thanks guys! Yes, the trailer has electric brakes but I'm not sure if there are 2 or 4. I assume 4? The people who sold me the trailer bought it new in '94 and didn't have any of the original paperwork. I already called a trailer place to have the brakes/bearings serviced. I assume they will be able to tell me what controller I will need, but I'm not all that thrilled about paying them to install it. As far as the hitch, I have a big ass thing installed that looks like it would be a major biatch to have removed. I thought maybe once I get it all set up for towing, I'd pull the trailer around unloaded to see how it goes. Guess I need to read my door plate a little more closely to see what the GVRW is for my truck.
Your cattle trailer likely has 4 drum brakes, all electric, and is a nice setup. You want a Tekonsha Prodigy controller, it's extremely smooth and what you need with a maximum loaded truck. You don't mention if this is a regular cab and what year. I'm guessing it's an 80's truck, and that it's a regular cab short bed. That is definantly not the greatest combo. You should be good on brakes, that rear 14BFF really makes a huge difference. Just don't get much more than 7K and DON'T drive in bad weather. That is where people get in trouble. YOu could probably pull 10K fairly safe in perfect weather, but wind combined with rain can make for dangerous conditions.
The truck is a 77 shortbed and I'm an idiot:doah: No surprise that I was looking at the wrong information on the trailer plate. Unladen weight according to the registration is only 2420, so I should be OK. I was freaking out thinking my poor little K10 would not be able to tow such a fat pig of a trailer. I'm still going with all of your suggestions as I want to make this as safe as possible for me and especially my horse! Shaggy has graciously offered to remove my beaten up old hitch. I'd like to think he's just being a nice guy, but I'm thinking he prolly wants to play with the plasma cutter Many thanks and I will try to get my info correct the first time around should I need to seek advice again! You guys are great! Thanks waytogo
1. You are not an idiot. 2. It would be worth just weighing the trailer yourself. I have a 70ft scale myself and charge $7 for a certified weight tag, $4 if you just want me to write the weight down on a piece of paper for you. Well worth the cost to know exactly what everything weighs IMHO.
Thanks... I sure do feel like one sometimes :doah: I'm pretty sure there are scales around here -- I just need to look thanks again
heres my .02 cents. I have a 78 chevy heavy half ton 2wd. Its pulled numerous horse trailers, flat beds, skid steers, you name it. Sometimes i had trailer brakes, sometimes not :doah: . I have the 350 4bl quadrajet. The power is there. But the biggest improvement to do is a rear suspension upgrade. I put air shocks and timbren rubber overloads on. The stiffening of the rearend stopped jouncing, wind problems, and generally stabilized my trailers. Just dont get in any hurry and you will be fine. btw, my 'ol blue as i like to call her handled the largest skidsteer cat has to offer (10,500 i think) just fine. happy towing
wow thats rough on a half ton, can we say right at max capacity I guess i'm more conservative on what I tow with my rigwaytogo
