Just wondering if there's much need, or many trucks out there that are in need of more "pep". I can make this into an article type thread so I can add pictures for each engine family I have info for. Most of what I have is mechanical injected med. duty, and a couple HD diesels.
the t444E coupled to older allisons need more help, but thats easily done. 6.5L in tow trucks/cookie truck chassis are gutless the mercedes 4 bangers in small frieghtliners are just plain hurting.......
Cat 3208's Cat 3208: Tools needed-7/16" socket, a short extension or 2, and a screwdriver. If you look on the top of the pump you'll see a cover with 2 bolts that's about the same size as a Holley carb's float bowl. Fuel does come out sometimes, and does not need bleeding afterwards. Under it is a screw with a jamb nut. If you hit the accel. linkage you'll see a little pin come up. The screw stops the pin and thus, limits fuel. So adjust it as far up as you can as long as you can tolerate the black smoke. Most turbo'd 3208's can run fine with the screw all the way out(removed). And just behind that is the high rpm governor adjustment. It's labeled as 'high idle', but only go 2-3 turns at a time as to keep it under 3200 no load. Backing the screw out raises the rpm. One more adjustment is the pre-boost power. This is up in the front of the other 2 adjustments. It's round & has 3 bolts holding it & 6 holes in it. Take all 3 bolts out and you may have to smack it with something to break it loose(mosly from paint). Now tighten it like you're screwing it in tighter, that makes the power come in sooner. If you go 'til it stops, then you may see lots of smoke if you mash down on the pedal. Back it out as needed.
This one covers IH DT360-530, Ford 6.6 & 7.8, and some John Deere. There's 2 different types of pumps that I've done. The mid 80's to 92 and the 93 to 95. For more hp than this Scheids and Hypermax are gurus on the 466's. 600hp is easy to get on these engines. *The easy ones are the 93-95 P-pump, they are just like the 12V dodge from 94-98. And use the instructions http://www.tstproducts.com/INSRUCT98.pdf to get down in there and slide the fuel plate forward and/or grind it flat. The AFC adjustment is with a 5/16" allen wrench from the top, then you'll see a "star wheel" inside. Spin the wheel to loosen the spring(it'll slowly go forward), if you go totally forward it'll have a ton of smoke when you mash the go pedal. You can also use a 3000 rpm gov spring kit from a 12 valve Dodge/Cummins, they are usually under $150, keep in mind the valves start to float around 3400rpm. *Now for the older type inline pumps('84-ish to '92): I have a hand written drawing that describes this better than I can in print ans is described in the link to The Diesel Garage above. To the rear of the pump on the top is 2 different allen plugs. The bigger one is the fuel rate, and the smaller is the star wheel, or pre-boost smoke adjustment.To do the fuel you take off the plug with either a 3/8" or 10 mm allen wrench. Now tie up the fuel shutoff sol. or pull cable in the run position and you will see the adjustment screw. You may need to put a brick or such on the accelerator to keep the screw in the right spot under the hole. Break the jamb nut loose with a 3/8" or 10 mm deep socket and loosen the screw all the way. At this point it will be loose in the rack, but not fall in. Take some needle nose pliers and carefully remove the screw. Run the nut so there's 3-5 threads left on the screw(away from the head). Now (again-carefully) put the screw back in and tighten it with a regular slotted screwdriver up to the jamb nut. Then a good snug on the jamb nut and it's done. If you drop the screw inside the pump you can retrieve it easily with a pencil type magnet. Untie the shutdown sol. and remove the accelerator weight tool. Under the smaller allen plug is the star wheel. Take the plug off with either a 5/16" or 8mm allen wrench. Spin the star wheel towards the front of the pump(rotate towards the pass side) to increase low end power(smoke)and away for less low end smoke. The same use of Cummins 5.9 gov spring kit applies here too.
A factory reflash is just over $300. It can get you to 330hp. The L10's aren't BOMB friendly like a B or C series.
