Powerstroke Seems Underpowered

It will actually send half back into the tank. Our truck cycle the fuel. It does this because in cold weather, to keep the fuel in the tank from gelling, it sends hot fuel from the fuel bowl to the tank. So basically, only half of whats in the fuel bowl gets used.

 

yeah, they (Lithia) wanted $1700 to fix "everything". they claimed I had a loose downtube but there was not black smoke on the firewall, and they claimed I had another bad sensor. They claimed they had to pull the tranny to get to the downtubes. I took it to another diesel mechanic for a second opinion. Cam sensor was the only thing wrong. no other codes came up but I will double check with mechanic. true! stay away from dealers if you can.

I have never seen any black smoke when heavy on the wire. I will floor it (at $3/gallon) and let you know. I appreciate the advice.
waytogo

 

I sure hate to hear that story about the stealer! WE replace downpipe all the time here, that very simple to do, about 20 min. with one person and a beer.

Those cps have been knownto fail a lot, get it from the international dealer, they cost around $90 there and only about 6 min to replace. (Use a 10mm socket)

If you dont an international dealer near, i have one about 5 min away and I can get it for you and send it to you.

No black smoke id good. But if you put it to the floor, you will see some which is normal.

Glad i can helpwaytogo

Take a look at this shop manual
http://www.nav-international.com.br/frame_master.asp?tipo=powerStroke&pg=manual_i/powerStroke/hs.asp

 

Well, I added a 1/2 bottle of Power Service in the gray bottle to the tank and directly to the fuel filter bowl (drained all fuel first) and now, the truck is harder to start (at cool temps from 17f to 35f) and it seems to be mis-firing at startup too. it basically turns over more at startup and idles very, very rough at startup. mileage? hard to say but does not appear to have been helped and power seems to be the same. Next, I will check under the valve cover for a pesky loose wire.

 

You may need to change your injector o-rings. Have you noticed a slight mix of diesel in your oil?


Hmmm......misfires......is your hpop (high pressure oil pump) leaking at all anywhere?

Oil starvation also cuses some of your symptoms.

What type oil filter are you using?

possible ipr issue, but doesnt sound like it

 

injector o-rings? are they expensive to replace?

when I "plug" the engine in, it starts much, much easier and runs smooth at startup - but when started "cold", she grumbles...

I have not noticed any other "oil" in the engine oil but will look the next time I change it - not far away.

I am running Delo 400 15w-40 and a motorcraft FL1995 oil filter and have always used them. I change both at 3000 miles since I use the truck mostly for towing an 8000lbs trailer. The truck has 45,000 miles of mostly highway driving - it's not a city truck.

thanks again for the advice.

 

Nah, injector o-ring are no dig deal. The o-ring kit itself costs about $16 and the rest is pretty easy. just pull the valve covers and , take out the injectors, and replace the o-rings on the injectors (one at a time and replace them as you go.

Glad you told me about plugging it in.waytogo That put a whole new light on it.

This usually indicates a problem with the glow plug system.
Disconnect the Engine Oil Temp (EOT) sensor at the rear of the oil reservoir. This will cause the PCM to energize the glow plug relay for 2 minutes, and set a code. Turn the key to the run position and check for any voltage drop at the outlet side of the glow plug relay. The voltage should be greater than 10 volts during the glow plug cycle.
There is a history of burned and melted relay terminals and a couple of updated relays. Most recent part number is F7TZ-12B533-CA and can be identified by a gold-colored base.
If there is no voltage out of the relay, check for voltage in at the main terminal as well as key power and PCM-controlled ground at the two-wire connector. On 97 and newer vehicles inspect the bank circuit divider shunt for damage. If the relay tests fine test the glow plug resistance to ground at the valve cover connectors. The glow plug terminals are the outer two on 94-97, outer four on 98.5/99. Resistance should be 0.1-6 ohms depending on engine temp. A high reading could be the result of a spread or damaged Under Valve Cover harness or damaged valve cover gasket; re-check any high readings at the glow plug itself. Damaged UVC harnesses can be repaired with kits F7TZ-14489-AA for 97 and -BA for 94-96 trucks or replaced with F4TZ-9D930-K for 94-97 trucks or F81Z-9D930-AB on 98.5/99. Resitance from the glow plug relay to the valve cover connertors is 0-1 ohm. If no other faults are found, allow the vehicle to sit overnight. Before starting the engine, set the scan tool to monitor data stream and pick the EOT and Intake Air Temp sensors. The EOT and IAT should be within five degrees of each other. Next, remove the level-check plug from the HP oil pump reservoir and check the oil temperature with a thermometer to verify the EOT reading. If the EOT reading is higher than ambient (IAT) temperature, the PCM may be activating the glow plugs for too short a time, or not at all. If the problem only occurs at high altitude, and there is no glow plug system failures, the BARO sensor is most likley at fault.
Some 97 trucks have experienced a check engine light on after starting with Glow Plug Monitor circuit codes P1391, P1393, P1395 and P1396. After checking the glow plugs and the harnesses as in the above procedure, install a breakout box and check the GPM circuit to the PCM--GPML, LH bank terminal to pin 34; GPMR, RH bank terminal to pin 9; GPMH, relay output terminal to pin 8

Sorry for the long post, but......

If you need instructions for most anything one these trucks, let me know, its my pleasurewaytogo

 

this is all beyond my capabilities and requires equipment I don't have but I can and will pass this on to the mechanic. they have been relying mostly on computer codes for which there are none to indicate a problem. They did check the glow plugs though since the truck has become harder and harder to start over the past year. I believe they checked the resistance? can't remember how they said they did it.

Power and economy have never been as great as others have claimed but the truck seems to love hot weather. The best mileage I ever got was 21mpg at 105f ambient temp, AC on, 1500 lbs gear and people, at 55 to 60mph. It does not perform well in the cold probably due to cold oils/fluids, incomplete burn, "lousier" fuel, etc.

again, thanks.

 

I Wonder If...

THERE COULD BE A PROB WITH ENGINE TEMPS, FUEL DELIVERY OR BOTH?

POOR POWER & THE WIERD TEMP RELATED PROBS HE MENTIONED ARE NOT NORMAL.

WHY THE FAN RUN SO MUCH?
IS IT GETTING HOT ON THE GAUGE?
IS IT MISSING (QUICK JERKING/SHAKING) AT SPEED?
IS THE COOLING SYSTEM FULL (RADIATOR & OVERFLOW TANK)?
DID I UNDERSTAND HE'S USING (TRYING) BLOCK HEATER AT WARM TEMPS TO HELP IT START?
DOES THE HEATER WORK WELL?

I'VE NOT WORKED MUCH ON PSDs BUT DO UNDERSTAND MACHINERY & HAVE OWNED & DRIVEN MANY DIESELS. MINE IS A STOCK '99 PSD. THEY SHOULD RUN FINE COLD OR HOT.

WHILE IT WOULD BE EASIER TO DIAGNOSE THE TRUCK 'IN PERSON', WE SHOULD BE ABLE TO AT LEAST HELP FIGURE THIS THING OUT...

LET US KNOW SOME DETAILS SO WE CAN FIGURE IT OUT. HOPE WE CAN HELP..-TED-NC

 

A Great Site For Powerstroke Diagnosis....

AND REPAIR IS THE DIESELMANN: http://www.intellidog.com/dieselmann/home.html

HE MAY HELP YOU, I'VE EMAILED HIM ABOUT MINE...

TED-NC

PS. SURE WOULD LIKE TO DITCH THAT "HALF TON HAULER" CRAP THEY STUCK ON HERE. MY TRUCK WEIGHS ABOUT 13,000 LBS BY ITSELF!

 

the clutch fan does not run "on high" (you can't hear it roar) except when towing under hot temps (maybe 85f and above). Occasionally it will run when hot at slow speeds. Never runs in the cold.

the cooling system is healthy. Just had it serviced this past summer (by a Stealer). System is full.

The guage does not register hot. Always registers in the normal range or place where it has always been. Engine heats up fine (based on guage and cab heater).

It runs absolutely fantasitic under speed or idle when hot (except for the reduced power and poor fuel economy). no jerking, no surging, etc. It is hard to start (starter turns over more) and even harder to start when cold - say, 30f and below. The other day it was 25f and when I started it (not plugged in) it ran very, very rough. Whole truck was shaking. thought the engine mounts were going to break! Extremely nasty idle. It did smooth out after a few minutes.

if you start it by plugging in the block heater overnight, it starts much better but it still cranks over a bit more than it used to. At least the idle is smooth immediately upon startup. In the past, I've started the truck un-assisted (no plug heater) at 0°F so I know it once started better. I've owned it since new. Have tried different diesel fuel stations, Power Service gray bottle and Amsoil additives but still no change. The fuel filter is new. the oil is Delo 400 15w-40, motorcraft filter. The oil has 2000 miles under it.

The other day, I towed a 6000 lbs camp trailer (mostly highway driving at between 50 and 60mph) I got 9 miles per gallon. A week later, I drove it with no load and no trailer on the highway at 75mph and got 13 miles per gallon. A guy here at work has the exact same truck exept it's a long bed, F-350 (mine is a short bed, F-250) and he gets 13 mpg when towing his 4 horse 5th wheel trailer. I get 13 to 14 empty! Our trucks are each year 2000. Mine used to get 17 to 18 empty on the highway.

it's with the mechanic right now. I will share what I find out if I find out anything at all. Thanks for all the advice. Friendly forum....waytogo

 

Any findings on your truck yet?

May also want to have them check your turbo wheel.

 

again, they found nothing wrong. The glow plug system is perfect. Your procedure/advice was spot on. I gave them a copy. No bad codes in the computer either.

Ironically, I was thinking about taking the truck back to them and testing the boost pressure. I did have a turbo go bad way back just after I got the truck. It was leaking oil, power was poor, and 10mpg empty. I think boost pressure under hard aceleration was around 17psi? the mechanic should know that.

on a brighter note, the starting situation is getting easier. Must have been a bad batch of fuel? It fires up much easier when cold and idles good too.

I will let you know after we test the turbo.
thanks again for all the help.

 

nothing yet....
but, I do have a question. What should the boost pressure be at full throttle? with no chip? and with a "mild" (60hp) SuperChip? I am wondering if my turbo is acting up? not working up to it's full potential as when new. What's a good test for the turbo? thanks again!

 

The normal boost should be about 15-18psi with your foot to the floor. Normal driving around town should be about 12-13psi.

with mild chip you prolly wil get about 22psi, not sure about with the chips.

What are you getting?

 

With an older "Superchip" 60hp chip, we tested the truck yesterday and got 14psi (consistantly) with a scan tool and with the pedal to the floor. What does this mean? what would the fix be?

And the truck was a real DOG without the chip but we did not test boost pressure without the chip.
thanks again for your help.

 

Sounds like a bad turbo or turbo wheel. Most likely its just the turbo wheel. Take the air intake hose off (leading from the air filter to the turbo) Look into the turbo once it is removed and describe to me in GREAT DETAIL what you see. Could be as simple as replaceing the turbo wheel because its coked (cooked) up with burned oil or its spinning off balance and has damaged the fins.

 

Do you let it idle much? Do you immediately shut it off after a hard tow or long highway use?

 

Here are a couple of photos if the turbo.

First Pic: off balanced wheel that has damaged fins
Second Pic: Really healthy turbo

Note. oil in the turbo is normal, burned oil on the turbo wheel "is" a problem.