Quick question? My VP 44 got me home from camping but its toast. I would lose power on the hills and cruising on the flats. Called the dealership with the codes that it was showing and they said for sure it was the VP 44. My question is does anyone have a recomendation for a good reman pump or should I go brand new? As expensive as these things are I want to do it right. Reman pump $1900.00 New $3000.00 plus $600.00 install quote. This is at the Dodge dealership and some local Independent shops were within a couple hundred dollars. Any help would be appreciated. (note) I did install Fass fuel pump last fall hopeing no damage to pump had occured but I guess I was to late.
Check around on pricing again. I just replaced my VP-44 (2 months ago) with an SO VP-44 and it was $1500 minus $400.00 core charge.
I carry them myself. 2-3K is way too much for a stock rebuild. Fast to install, so don't let them sell you on a 4 hour job. Dave
Thanks guys for the Advice after shoping around a local shop sells and installs DDP Vp 44s for $1250.00. They have a 1 year 12,000 mile warranty. As you guys know the economy is in the toilet therefore funds are not as easy to come by. How hard is it to install the VP 44? I need to pull the radiator and wash it out. And I thought while I had that out I could do the Pump at the same time. Unless you guys think Its better for a shop to do it. I want to do it right the first time if you know what I mean.
They aren't that hard if you are a good mechanic. You need a special tool to pop the pump shaft off of it's drive gear that is in the front case. You can buy the tool through Snap-On or Cummins, but it's just easier to make one. The pump should come locked ready to fire on #1 cylinder, you then have to bar the engine over for the intake stroke on #1 cylinder. I am not sure what the ISB has to mark #1, but on a 4B390 that I've done had a pin that you pushed, as the drive gear turns in the front case, the pin would grab a groove in the gear and stop the engine, putting you on #1. You also have to watch out for the key stock on the pumpshaft, as you slide the pump shaft into the front case. If the key stock falls out of the shaft and down into the front case, you'll be taking the front case off to retrieve it, and that would really suck....:doah:
Blue Chips Diesel VP 44? Sorry Guys for the late reply I have been out of town working. While out of town I worked with a Guy that just replaced his vp44. Anyways he bought his through Blue Chips Diesel. they speacilize In 2nd Gens they sell a pump with a new computer hence their higher cost. They also send you the pully to remove pump properly and a full set of very detailed directions. I called them and told them my problems and they nailed right on. Its called DEAD PEDAL. Dead Pedal means that the computer on top of the pump has suffered to many heat cycles. and the sodder on the wireing breaks down. It still means my pump is toast though. All of your guys advice is aligning with theirs. Every bit of advice I can get is great.such as parts falling into the case sounds something that would definetly happen to me. Please If you guys know anything about this company and their products more advice would be appreciated.
One of the things I do before popping the VP44 loose, is maker sure the keyway on the injection pump shaft is facing up. Straight up, if possible. I made the mistake of pulling one with the keyway on the under side of the shaft. Needless to say, I had to reseal a front cover after I got the keyway out. To check the keyway position - leave the pump housing bolts tight & remove shaft nut & washer (use a pocket magnet on the washer -hint hint). If the keyway is facing downward, use a marker & mark the keyway position on the end of the shaft. Put the washer & nut back on. Turn engine over until mark is facing upward - remove nut & washer, remove housing bolts, use puller to break pump loose. There is a lower bracket that needs to have the bolt(s)- depending on year removed as well. I don't know about timing for first cylinder, I sit the pumps on a bench side by side & set the new keyway in the same position as the old pump. When you install the pump, get the shaft started & push the pump gear (through the hole) towards the pump - If you lined up right, the keyway should be visible using a mirror, make sure it is centered - if it isn't make the necessary adjustments until it is. I install the housing bolts & tighten, so I can double check the keyway before putting the lock washer & nut on. Make sure the VP44 is the correct version for your truck - SO or HO & the make the keyway # example: .036 is also marked on the side cover. If not get one that is. The #'s will vary - just make sure they match. This has worked for me & I have installed 25 or 30 VP44's.
VP44's are electronically timed. No need to worry about #1 cylinder. I agree with everything he said except if you find the Key facing down, you don't need to reinstall the lock washer and nut. Just use the alternator pully nut to rotate the motor and you can watch with your mirror as the keyway rotates. The support bracket uses 2 bolts on the block, once the VP is off you can use a Torx bit to remove the bracket and install it on the new VP44. You can pull the Fuel lines off in groups of 3, so don't worry about pulling EVERYTHING apart, just pay attention to how they are grouped. Going back together, leave lines #1, 3 and 4 loose. These will be your bleeders for restart. Once you get fuel out of them tighten them up. When it starts it will run rough, but rev it to about 1500 and it should clear up in no time. You have to get the revs up to increase injection pressure to purge out the other injector lines.
